Textura
Dão, Portugal
The world has had a fair share of vanity projects foisted upon the wine map as massive investments for ego’s sake. These are often grand estates built by powerful men, provided with exceptional wealth and access from some illustrious first career, who eschew any sense of patience or attention towards the harmony around them. The investment involved generally includes complex marketing plans to tell the world the importance of it all, perhaps overwhelming the voice that makes the location unique or the imperfection magical. Nothing is left to chance. Very little is terroir. It is not part of the business plan.
Happily, very little of this is reflected in how Marcelo Araujo, a well-financed retiree from Brazil (and no foreigner to some of the above mentioned wines) started his new winery life tucked under the Estrella range in Portugal’s bucolic Dão valley. “Terroir” was probably the first word on his yellow pad, with a list of things to learn before he turned dream into concrete reality: place, culture, weather patterns, soil personality, grape identity, history & traditions as well a full grasp on oenology and what it means to be a farmer. Patiently, he gained access by building relationships within the community, huddling together Luis Seabra with a team of inspired graduates and arrived at a place that is as much a home to observation and imagination as a monument to achievement.
Textura formally launched in 2018. It is still in the adolescent phase, learning where to grow and how exactly how fast. in order to find the meaning of their terroir, they have modeled, in a sense the study pattern of Burgundy: an appellation scale with wines representing their regional Dão expression, then more single village identity and nearing single vineyard Crus. Single varietal wines are also starting to emerge, with character all their own. We are eager to follow them in stride, on their way to becoming a humble benchmark of a region quickly gaining fame.
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Textura is the Portuguese word for “texture”. The winery’s founder and owner, Marcelo Araujo wants his wines to be about their textures and feel and importantly how it makes us feel to drink them. Marcelo purposefully chose the Dão region because of its attractive combination of climate and geographic features offering optimal grape growing conditions. Nestled against Portugal’s tallest inland mountain region, the Serra da Estrela, the Dão is quickly becoming a magnet for some of Portugal’s best winemakers as the prime location for showcasing several of the country’s prominent varietals. Marcelo and his family made significant investments in understanding their land and building their winery (fit into the original location of a textile factory) to properly allow for organic farming and the vinification of their parcels separately.
Although the overall winemaking is directed by Luis Seabra, Marcelo has gathered a critical mass of imagination in the cellar. Mariana Vala Salvador leads the team as assistant to Luis. Marcelo himself has finished courses in Oenology too. The approach is minimalist and ensuring the wines are not manipulated but reflect what the terroir intended. The team is young, inspired and visionary.
The cellar is housed in a reclaimed concrete industrial structure, now insulated and fully functional. It appears historic in it’s outdoor setting but opens to a pristine atelier that is entirely modern. Inside resides fermenting vessels, widely ranging in size, material and intention. The 2nd tier of aging barrels (of mixed sizes) has only just begun (This whole project kicked off in 2018!). This allows the full tool box to explore potential as the estate looks to sculpt and define the wines.
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After sourcing for existing vineyards, in a region of small growers, 19 ha of vineyards aged between 18 and 50 years were gathered in 7 different plots.
*Vila Nova de Tazem (Serra da Estrela)* poor granite soils at altitudes between 480 and 550m, cool nights, fresher wines
*Encoberta and Matela (Penalva do Castelo)* a vineyard planted in 1992 at 460m-500m in more fertile, clay-granitic soils, wines with greater aromatic exuberance
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Textura’s fundamental principles are based on respect for local nature with its biodiversity (soil, flora and fauna, people and community); the preservation of resources (natural and cultural) and regional development. All the vineyards have undergone organic conversion and all possible waste is transformed into compost, which is shared with other growers.
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The winery is fashioned into an old textile mill just at the base of the Serra da Estrela. In the search to find the best expression from each site and varietal, Marcelo and team have incorporated a multitude of vessels to experiment in the first years of Textura. Modern stainless steel lagares sit next to polished concrete eggs, several large foudres and old burgundian barrels (228L-600L). No wine is crafted by recipe, but the tools on hand offer the chance to explore the effects of various pressings, macerations, fermentations and elevage.
What remains consistent is natural fermentations with healthy lees contact throughout, sans battonage. The reds are handled gently with an eye to avoid over-extraction. Long aging in cool conditions and minimal racking, allowing for natural stabilization.
Wines
Textura da Estrela Branco
Grapes: 60% Encruzado, 25% Bical, 15% Cerceal-Branco From vineyards in Vila Nova de Tazem, sub-region Serra da Estrela. 3 different parcels. 25-60 year old vines grown in granite soils Vinification: Decantation for 48 hours was proceeded after destemming and pressing the handpicked grapes (only the gently pressed juice was used to this wine). Wild fermentation took place 60% in a 2500L François Freres foudre, 30% in 500 L François Freres oak barrels and 10% in stainless steel tanks. The wine aged for 11 months “sur lie” without batonnage and other 10 months in stainless steel tanks.
Textura da Estrela Tinto
Grapes: 35% old vines field blend, 30% Touriga Nacional, 20% Jaen, 15% Alfrocheiro From 3 different vineyard blocks, all of them at Vila Nova de Tazem (Serra da Estrela sub region). 25-60 year old vines grown in granitic soils. Vinification: Fermented with wild yeasts only in stainless steel tanks with 35% whole bunch followed by a 30 days cuvaison. It has aged for 15 months in used french oak vat and barrels. Naturally stabilized.
Encoberta Tinto
Grapes: Jaen (50%), Alfrocheiro (25%), Tinta Roriz (15%) and Touriga Nacional (10%). Encoberta is the name of a small village in Penalva do Castelo (Castendo sub region) Vineyards with 28 years old at 460 m altitude with granite and clay soil composition Vinification: Large format French oak with 35% whole bunch
Pura Branco
Grapes: 70% Encruzado 15% Bical, Cerceal-Branco and 15% field blend from the “Pura” vineyard 50 yr old vines 480-550 m altitude Fermented in 70% 500 L barrels, 30% in cement, remaining to be aged 11 months before bottling
Pura Tinto
Grapes: Encruzado, Bical, Cerceal-Branco from the “Pura” vineyard 50 yr old vines granitic soils in Vila Nova de Tazem (480-550m) 70% 500 L barrels, 30% in cement aged 11 months
Vinha Negrosa
Grapes: Jaen & Alfrochiero in combination as the vintage suggests (2019 - 50/50 Jaen Alfrochiero. 2020- 75/25) Located in Estrela close to the winery at 500m 500L barrels (used 2015 from Jura)