Quinta de Santiago

Quinta de Santiago

Monção & Melgaço, Vinho Verde, Portugal

 

Joana Santiago

 
 

Sometimes a little provocation can create an entirely new reality, as in the case of Quinta do Santiago. A short while before Grand Cru was combing northern Portugal, the wildly energetic Joana Santiago took up the challenge from her Grandmother: to take their humble farm, which was only selling grapes to the local co-op, and present it’s unique soul to a wider world by bottling wines embossed the family name. Her area was already known for quality grapes, specifically within Menção e Melgaço, so she knew the quality was in her vines to express excellence. That assured, without a specific identity so to speak, to allow for something new would take certain self-reflection, dedication and a generous sense of humility. Most in the region crank out casually-consumed sprtizy Vinho-Verde. She made one too, but used it as a first way to raise the bar. Her main focus however, has been Alvarinho, which excels as a singular grape here (see Rias Baixas within view acrosss the border). Through this lens she could express her terroir, her farm, her family ideals and a way to attract attention to the region at large. Happily Joana is nothing if not tenacious and driven. Given a few years of trial and error, guided by instinct (as there are still few local references) she believes now that she has made Mariazinha (at age 86!) a very proud grandma indeed.

We were introduced to Joana only recently, at the doorstep of her old family home, surrounded by a complete saturation of verdant life. She kicked things off in 2009 (3 generations working together) and has since partnered with the remarkable Nuno Mira do Ó (vigneron and ridiculous vine-hunter!). Combined, they have brought the Santiago wines to the front, as well as introduced the SOU wines, meant to set the benchmark for the region. There is an evident understanding of the place now, and of the separate plots, enough to bottle under the vineyard names themselves. The Santiago farm is a estate as we would know one in other greta wine regions, with a long-view to realize its full potential and sustainability. This means of course a limited amount of wine to offer to the thissty world. Grand Cru Selections is remarkably thankful she is willing to share with us... just as Grandma’s dream is in full swing!

  • Quinta de Santiago is a family-owned farm spanning 7.5 hectares (18.5 acres) along the banks of the Minho River in the Monção and Melgaço sub-region of Vinho Verde. It has been in the Santiago family since 1899. For about 100 years, Quinta de Santiago's main activity was the production of wines, olive oil, lupine, cereals, milk, meat, and fruit for self-consumption. Grapes grown in the vineyards were sold to large cooperatives in the region. This changed in 2009 and from the passion and determination of then owner, Grandma Mariazinha Santiago (age 86), her children, and grandchildren, a boutique winery was born.

    At the head of the family's winery is Joana Santiago, a self-described “authentic Minho woman” - driven to honor her family's heritage. It is from a multi-generation devotion to the family's land and vineyards that the special qualities of Quinta de Santiago are rooted. Santiago family combine tradition, modernity, and enthusiasm to create authentic wines expressing the terroir of the region's and farm's native varietals.

  • Along the northern border of Portugal and Spain, Quinta de Santiago is uniquely positioned to benefit from a microclimate ideal for growing Alvarinho, Loureiro, and numerous red grapes indigenous to this area. The particular orientation of the Quinta shelters the vineyards from significant Atlantic influences but preserves thermal amplitudes ideal for ripening indigenous varietals. Soil is efficiently clay given the the proximity to the Minho River. Within the farm itself, life is evident everywhere. Nearly 100 varieties of fruit, nut and olive trees shelter the few vineyard plots, on a cushion of nutritious soil teaming with grasses, herbs and fungi. Humidity is high and constant. Elevation is under 100M, sloping almost unnoticeably to the river’s edge.

  • Joana is hyper-focused on sustainability and biodiversity. She has organized and leads a group of regional growers focused on water use and the preservation of local natural resources. Wines are fermented with native yeasts and the aim is to let this special land and fruit tell the story in the glass. It is hyper-organic holistically. All wines are Vegan.

    “We began with the groundwork for the planting of the vineyards, from the choice of materials used in the vines training to the cultivation techniques used throughout the vines lifecycle. These include adopting integrated production techniques, not using herbicides and co-planting species that are attractive to pollinating insects. We also work to improve the water retention of our soils, promote the development of flora and fauna that helps reduce disease pressure. We make good use of our waste, incorporating vine by-products (skins, leaves, pruning material) into our compost, as well as reducing packaging wherever possible.“

  • All grapes are manually harvested. Wine making begins with a gentle press followed by natural settling. All fermentation is completed with natural yeasts, done mostly in stainless steel vats.

Wines

Vinho Verde

40% Arinto, 30% Trajadura, 30% Loureiro (the grapes traditionally used in the Vinho Verde demarcated region, especially in the Sousa sub-region).

Vinha do Pisco

Alvarinho and Loureiro grapes exclusively from the special parcel “PISCO”. Soil clay in alluvial terraces, closest to the river. Soft pressing, natural decanting. Co-fermentation of Alvarinho and Loureiro juice in inox. Aging follows with 4 months on top of fine lees.

Vinha do Chapim

100% Alvarinho grapes from the special parcel “Chapim”, alongside the old family house. Soil is clay including rolled flintstones in alluvial terraces. Soft pressing, natural decanting. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts in steel vat. Aging progresses for 9 months on top of fine lees.

SOU wines

In Portuguese, Sou translates to “I Am.”, which perhaps reflects the poise these 2 wines exhibit. There is more to the story.... The Sou wines are a joint project with Santiago (S) Nuno Mira do Ó (O) and rock & roll (think U-shaped hand gesture seen in the front row). They are both, authentic and rebellious. What began as a casual late-night conversation in a crowded bar, turned into a spirited partnership offering Nuno (who is always combing Portugal for the old clones of indigenous varietals) a chance to play with top Alvarinho. Precision, elegance, purity does not often describe Rock & Roll, but the entire project is infused with energy and pleasure. The wines would not be so good without these two talents (and maybe too much tequila in that bar!).

SOU Alavarinho

A true wine of terroir, specifically Menção e Melgaço. Despite being only 10 years old, the Tentilhão plot that gives rise to SOU Alvarinho has a great vegetation poise and a well-balanced ripening with an amazing capacity to retain natural acidity. Manual harvesting, soft pressing, natural decanting. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts. 40% of the juice fermented in used 400-liter barrels, where it completed the malolactic fermentation spontaneously. Slow fermentation of 60% of the juice in the vat. Aging for 9 months on top of fine lees 3500 bottles

SOU Tinto Vinha de Ramada

70% Alvarelhão with a blend of Pedral, Borraçal, Cainho, Alvarinho, & Vinhão. Hand harvested in mid-September. Fermentation with 40% of whole bunches and stalks, in vats and mills. Aging for 11 months in used French oak barrels and aging in bottle since August 2021. 2500 bottles