Piero Busso
Neive, Barbaresco, Piedmont, Italy
Pierguido & Piero Busso
Piero Busso, with his bright young son Pierguido, is increasingly driving quality to greater heights at this family domaine in Barbaresco. Founded by Guido Busso in the fifties, the domaine is based in Neive, a high altitude comune of Barbaresco, and has at its core some fine Nebbiolo vines planted in the Albesani MGA opposite the winery. The estate’s exceptional holdings don’t end there, as they also boast parcels in the Gallina MGA and Treiso’s San Stunet. Winemaking here is traditional, long and slow, with up to 45 days of maceration on the skins and aging in 25hl Slavonian oak botti. The bewitching high toned fruit and natural elegance of Nebbiolo from Neive shines throughout the Busso’s production.
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The domaine was established in 1948 by Guido Busso, Piero’s father. But it was Piero himself who produced the first bottle of Barbaresco Albesani in 1982, effectively launching the direction of the winery’s future. Today, Piero and his wife Lucia together with their children Pierguido and Emanuela care for the 10 hectares in the Busso’s possession. Three of the family’s four cru holdings are located in Neive, in the heart of Barbaresco. In 1985, the Busso family acquired Bricco Mondino from the Balluri area in Neive followed by Gallina in 1999. Not long after came San Stunet in Treiso. Albesani remains their greatest beacon, situated right out front of the winery.
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Neive boasts some of the highest altitude plots in Barbaresco, and three of the Busso’s four dominant vineyard sites are situated in this area. Soils are calcareous with clay and silt in Albesani, while in Gallina the vines grow over the trademark Sant’Agata marl. The vines range in age from 25 to 80 years, with the oldest vineyards in Albesani.
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A meticulous, thoughtful way of working the land is a reflection of the family themselves whom have always cared for the vineyards with respect for the earth and upholding the vitality of each cru. The winery has been certified organic since 2019. All vineyards are guyot trained and the Busso’s prefer to harvest low yields. Cover crops are planted between vine rows to moderate vigor and contain pests. Treatments in the vineyards are kept to a bare minimum without the use of chemicals or herbicides.
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The theory in the cellar is hands off in order to let the terroir shine. Grapes are harvested by hand and destemmed before fermenting with indigenous yeasts and pied de cuve. Very long, slow macerations with little skin contact and minimal crushing of the cap are preferred. Aging is in botti, followed by an additional period in bottle.
Wines
Barbaresco Mondino
One of the better examples for young drinking, Mondino is located within the Balluri cru and marries deep, complex fruit with lithe spice notes. Vines are 25-50 years old, producing Barbaresco with a classic aromatic spectrum of licorice, orange and raspberry. Unlike others, this is an immediate wine, precise and drinkable.
Barbaresco Albesani ‘Vigna Borgese’
Albesani “Vigna Borgese” refers to the small plot of vines that surrounds the Busso family home and cellar in Neive. Older vines (50 years old) are taken from a 1.2 ha parcel, delivering fruit that is deeply concentrated yet sleek, with glorious potential to age.
Barbaresco San Stunet
The family’s sole vineyard holding in Treiso reveals its true character with grace and spice; an ode to terroir that stands out in synergy with the Busso lineup. Austere, fresh and sharp with a vertical progression on the palate.
Barbaresco Gallina
Nebbiolo sourced from Gallina is said to produce some of Neive’s roundest and most approachable Barbarescos, and indeed this is one of the more plush wines in the lineup, while maintaining elegance and austerity. Great verticality and pronounced tannic structure.
Barbera d’Alba Majano
The 40 year old vines are grown over calcareous, clay soil in Neive. A touch of oak is added to the wine as it ages in different sized barrels for about a year. It’s full of ruby red fruits, vinous, intense yet joyous with potential to age 5-10 years, although delicious immediately.
Langhe Nebbiolo DOC
Made from a selection of younger vine fruit (10-25 years old) from richer soils on estate vineyards in Neive, this wine is no after thought: it is the product of a precise choice made during harvest. Harmonious and balanced, the wine has great verticality, classic cherry and rose notes and persistent tannins.
Langhe Chardonnay
Fruit from Neive grown on calcareous soils is soft-pressed in whole bunches to make this wine, which ages on lees until bottling the following year. The result is a smooth, savory Chardonnay with peaks of acidity and crispness.