Pierre Morey/Morey-Blanc
Meursault, Côte de Beaune, France
Pierre Morey is a living legend in Burgundy. He was the régisseur (winemaker and vineyard manager) for the famed Domaine Leflaive starting in 1988 and ending in July of 2008, where he produced some of the greatest white wines in the history of Burgundy. A trailblazer, he began biodynamic farming and winemaking conversions at both Domaine Leflaive and his own estate vineyards starting in 1991 and officially certified by 1997.
A visit with Pierre and his daughter, Anne who has taken the reigns after years of working alongside her father, one feels the innate connection of the family’s deep roots in this place. Pierre speaks of his vineyards and winemaking process with a quiet reverence, while Anne, exudes confidence and infectious “let’s go” energy of the next generation. While the domaine is anchored in the white wine village of Meursault, there has been renewed attention to their Pinot noir plots in Monthelie and Volnay. Especially with Anne’s son Jean-Victor joining the domaine in 2021, after a focus on red vinification after working two years with Marquis d’Angerville.
In addition to the domaine, they manage a small negociant business, under the name of Morey-Blanc, where the vintages are judiciously selected throughout the Cote de Beaune.
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The Morey family’s origins can be traced back to the sixteenth century in Burgundy and since 1793 in Meursault. Each generation has worked the vineyards and made wine. In 1935 and at a very young age, Pierre Morey’s father, Auguste, became a share-cropper for Domaine des Comtes Lafon. At the time, the wine industry was struggling to regain momentum after an economic crisis and vineyard owners needed sharecroppers to survive financially. The sharecropping agreement included parcels in some of Meursault’s best premier crus: Perrières, Genevrières, and Charmes.
When Pierre established Domaine Pierre Morey in 1971, his father began to transfer his leasing rights to him. This continued until 1984 when the Lafon family decided to retake control of all their vineyards parcels and work them directly. From 1988 till 2008, Pierre Morey was the Cellar Master at Domaine Leflaive. During this period, he was in charge of all the technical aspects of the vineyard work and winemaking.
Today, Pierre is joined at his domaine by his daughter Anne Morey who is the co-manager of the estate. Anne’s son , Jean-Victor joined the domaine in 2021, with a focus on red vinification after working two years with Marquis d’Angerville.
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Situated in the center of the Côte de Beaune, and the first white wine dominated commune you’ll stumble upon headed south, is Meursault. Meursault is a name that most familiarize with white wine because, due to the perfect mixture of marl, chalk and the quality of its clay, Chardonnay thrives here and nearly all of the production is devoted to white wine. Despite the fact that this commune has no Grand Crus, its 1er Crus (Perrières, Charmes and Genevrières) arguably garner the same devotion and prestige as some of their fancier Grand Cru neighbors.
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The 10 hectares domaine has been certified organic since 1992 and farmed biodynamically since 1997 and has parcels in the villages of Monthelie, Pommard, Puligny-Montrachet, and, of course Meursault.
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For the whites: Pneumatically pressed, 12 to 24 hours settling of must, alcoholic fermentation on fine lees in oak barrels (20% new). Aged for 16 to 20 months, fined/ filtered if necessary, bottled by gravity.
For the reds: Generally 100% de-stemmed, light crushing, indigenous yeast fermentation, gentle extraction, temperature control. Aged 15-20 months in barrel; bottling by gravity.
Wines
Domaine Pierre Morey
Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir
Vines planted in 1966 in 0.92 hectare made up of 4 different parcels in Meursault (Au Village, Les Dressoles, Les Belles Côtes, En Vaux).
Monthelie Rouge
Vines planted in 1964 from 1.32 ha made up of six parcels: La Goulotte, Les Clous, La Cobe Danay, Les Gamets, Les Sous Courts and Les Crays. Red clay, chalk, rocky limestone soils.
Monthelie 1er Cru Rouge
Tiny parcel, 0.14 hectare with about 54 year old vines. Only made in generous vintages, like 2022, 2017 and 2015.
Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
0.35 hectare planted in 1970 in lieu-dit Les Pétures, mid-slope with finely-textured shallow red soil. They worked this plot from 1999-2003 under the Morey-Blanc label applying biodynamic pricipals; bought in 2004, which was the first vintage under Pierre Morey.
Pommard 1er Cru Grands Epenots
0.34 hectare plot planted in 1965 on mid-slope, protected from wind, well-drained, shallow reddish clay soils on limestone bedrock
Bourgogne Aligote
1.86 hectartes planted in 1957 on 2 parcels in Meursault (Les Vazelles, Les Chanterelles) with deep soil. 12 months in stainless steel.
Bourgogne Blanc
1.76 hectares planted in 1977 on multiple parcels (Les Millerands, En Monatine, Les Herbeux , Les Malpoiriers) with clay-limestone soils. All in the Meursault zone but Bourgogne appellation.
Meursault
0.86 hectare planted in 1983 in numerous parcels including Les Forges (direction: Monthelie, shallow soil with pebbles), Les Pellans (direction: Puligny by 1er Cru Les Charmes, gravelly soils), Les Chaumes (between 1er Cru Blagny and Les Narvaux, top of the hill, rocky soil)
Meursault Clos le Meix Tavaux
0.29 hectares planted in 1985. First vintage: 2019. This climat is located just above the Cloux stream, facing the Meix Chavaux hillside, in the heart of the village, the slope is quite gentle but the stony soil is good drainage. The etymology of the word remains mysterious. The style of this climat seems to combine suppleness and delicacy of floral aromas and minerality directly from a fairly calcareous soil but the future will tell.
Meursault Les Tessons
0.89 hectare planted in 1975 on a hillside above Meursault near famous 1er Crus, rocky soils on limestone bedrock
Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres
0.52 hectare planted in 1968 on the southern end of Meursault, in "Perrières Dessous": lower part, sheltered from wind, rocky soil.
Batard Montrachet
0.49 hectare of vines planted in 1965 just below Le Montrachet in upper part of plot, rich shallow soil on well-draining bedrock.
Maison Morey-Blanc
Saint Aubin Blanc 1er Cru
Blend of 1er Cru Sur Gamay (on Puligny-Montrachet hillside) and 1er Cru Sur le Sentier-du-Clou (center of St. Aubin).
Saint Romain Blanc Sous le Chateau
The Sous le Château climate is among the most prestigious in the appellation of Saint Romain, a very ancient village with an important archaeological heritage. Located in the valley of Auxey Duresses, it marks the northern limit of the Côte des Blancs. The marl-limestone soils of the Upper Jurassic are particularly suited to the good development of Chardonnay. First vintage was 2018.
Aloxe Corton 1er Cru Rouge Clos du Chapitre
Located in the heart of the village of Aloxe-Corton. Lutte raisonnée.
Volnay 1er Pitures
Located in the middle of the hillside in fairly cold soil, very close to the village heading towards Pommard, and adjoining the famous Clos des Ducs monopole. While retaining the finesse of Volnay, the geographical proximity of its illustrious neighbor Pommard gives this wine a fairly robust structure with floral aromas of peony and violet and also slightly refreshing anise notes.