Domaine Olivier Merlin
La Roche-Vineuse, Mâcon, France
Olivier Merlin
Photo Courtesy of Michel Joly
Olivier Merlin is an old-school wine maker who prides himself on crafting non-manipulated wines with low yields in the Mâconnais. He’s also really fun to hang out with. (What else could you ask for?)
Olivier’s wines are proof that wine from the Maconnais can be serious, long-lived, and delicious. Since starting his domaine in 1987 with his wife Corinne, he has worked tirelessly to promote the wines of the region, and amidst trends that have come and gone, Olivier can be considered as one of the region’s benchmark producers. Their two sons, Théo and Paul, officially joined the estate in 2017 with the new management of old vines in Mâcon, Saint-Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé. We’re excited to see what the new generation has up their sleeves.
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The Merlins do not come from a winemaking family. Olivier and his wife, Corinne started in 1987 going through the process of renting vines, sharecropping and then buying grapes. In 2005, they found an old family (the Arcelin estate) in La Roche-Vineuse with old-vine holdings and purchased their vineyards since they did not have any heirs. As a result, they got to work with great genetic material. In 2006, a new purchase in Moulin-à-Vent, part of which is in the La Rochelle region, was secured.
Their two sons, Théo and Paul, officially joined them at the end of 2017 with the new management of old vines in Mâcon, Saint-Véran and Pouilly-Fuissé.
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The Mâconnais is a succession of valleys with plenty of limestone, where elevation plays a key role. The highest vineyards in the region are found in the south. Viré Clissé has much more clay, and alluvial influences, the vineyards face East, south-east, and thus as a result one encounters the richest of Mâcon’s classified vineyards from there.
As one proceeds down the Saône the soils are so rocky that viticulture really is the only use. In and around Vergisson the vineyards generally face south, and you find pure chalk in many instances.
The first mention of Chardonnay in Burgundy actually comes from the abbey of Saint-Sorlin, which was eventually renamed La Roche Vineuse due to the secularization policies of the French Revolution.
The geography of the Maconnais allows for a greater variety of exposures. With an eye on the continued threat of global warming, they are planting for the future; experimenting with north expositions.
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Currently overseeing 11.26 hectares, a significant percentage of which is old-vine material. Olivier thinks that is very unique and an important part of the identity of his domaine. In order to preserve the genetic material of his parcels, he doesn’t plant any clones. He wants to keep the diversity of his genetic material and propagates all the vines that are not sick.
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100% de-stemmed for most cuvées but Moulin à Vent has whole cluster and semi-carbonic maceration, 10-25% new oak.
Wines
Bourgogne Blanc
A blend of Mâconnais parcels (La Roche-Vineuse, Prissé, Chaintré), quaternary clay-limestone soils. Fermentation is 60% in stainless steel tanks and 40% in oak barrel, full malos. Aged for 9 months.
Macon Blanc La Roche Vineuse
Vines planted from 1984 to 2004. The soils are Bathonian and Bajocian era clay-limestone. The majority of the wine is fermented in stainless steel tanks with around 10% going into older Burgundian barrels. The wine goes through malolactic fermentation and is bottled after 15 months of aging without being fined.
Macon Blanc La Roche Vineuse Vieilles Vignes
Olivier's old-vine La Roche Vineuse bottling comes from a 3 hectare parcel planted in the mid-1950s. The soils are Bathonian and Bajocian era clay-limestone. The wine is fermented entirely in barrel of different ages: 15% new, 25% one year old, 25% two years old, 25% three years old, and 10% four years old. It is aged in barrel for a year and then in tank for three months before being bottled without being fined.
Saint Veran
Saint Veran is an early-ripening site for Olivier. It is small, only 1.2 hectares, and has vines planted as recently as 2000 but as far back as 1950. The soils are quaternary clay-limestone based. The wine is fermented in barrel and aged for 10 months in mostly neutral barrel.
Saint Veran “Le Grand Bussière”
From a 0.80 ha parcel planted in 1959 on a south facing slope at 220 m in elevation on clay-limestone soil (secondary Bathonian, Bajocian). Whole-cluster pressing, light settling, alcoholic fermentation, 100% malolactic. Aged for 18 months in barrel (20% new oak).
Pouilly Fuissé
Planted on southeast-facing slope at 230 m elevation on quarternary clay-limestone soil (Bathonien Bajocien) Fermentation and aged for 10 months in barrel (25% new).
Pouilly Fuissé “Vieilles Vignes”
From a 0.6 ha parcel planted in the 1930s on a southeast-facing slope at 200m elevation on clay-limestone soil from secondary Bathonien (Bajocian).Fermentation, malos, and aged for 17 months in barrel (20% new oak).
Pouilly Fuissé 1er Cru “Sur la Roche“
0.6 ha plot planted in 1945 on an east facing slope at 330 meters elevation. Soil is Bathonian limestone with clay. Aged for 18 months on fine lees in barrel (15% new)
Pouilly Fuissé 1er Cru “Les Chevrières"
A densely planted (9,000 vines per hectare)plot of on average 75 year old vines (due to replanting). The soils are clay-limestone based with iron oxide. Average production is around 3,000 bottles. The fruit is whole cluster pressed and fermented in barrel (10% new). It is aged for 18 months in barrel.Starting in 2021, this site is classified as a premier cru. Olivier's sons Théo and Paul began a “fermage” (aka renting parcels) in 2017. 2018 was the first vintage release of these 4 sites.
Saint Veran “La Cote Rotie”
Sloped parcel on the southern side of the Roche de Vergisson, exposed to the strong "Mistral" winds. High altitude (325 to 350m). Shallow, stony soils with hard limestone bedrock just underneath. Fermentation in barrel, full malo, aged 12 months in barrel and a further 2-3 months in stainless steel tank, no fining, light filtration.
Saint Veran “en Creche”
Olivier's sons Théo and Paul began renting this vineyard in 2017. 2018 was the first vintage release. Parcel planted in 1963 on shallow, rocky, limestone soils. Fermentation in barrel, full malo, aged 12 months in barrel and a further 2-3 months in stainless steel tank, no fining, light filtration.
Pouilly Fuisse 1er Cru “Au Vignerais”
Located on the southern side of the Roche de Solutré at high altitude (300m). Light, stony soils that tend to retain heat. Fermentation in barrel, full malo, aged 18 months in barrel and a further 2-3 months in stainless steel tank, no fining, light filtration.
Pouilly-Fuisse 1er Cru “Clos de France”
0.23 ha parcel, located next to the church in the village of Vergisson, in the the northernmost village of Pouilly Fuissé which tends to ripen later. Planted in 1965 and 1985 in shallow soils of Triassic limestone (gryphées) at an altitude of 300m altitude and eastern exposure, 15% incline. Fermentation in barrel, full malo, aged 18 months in barrel and a further 2-3 months in stainless steel tank, no fining, light filtration.
Bourgogne Rouge
Olivier has the same elegant touch with his reds as he does his whites. He de-stems the Pinot Noir entirely and ferments in open-top wooden vats. After 13 days or so, the wine is pressed and the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in a combination of barrels and wooden vats. The share is roughly 60/40, in favor of the wooden vats. After 8 months of elevage in wood, the wine is racked, lightly filtered and bottled.
Bourgogne Rouge les Cras
Olivier's Bourgogne Rouge Les Cras comes from a single 0.90 hectare parcel of 20 year old vines. The soils are Bathonian and Bajocian era clay-limestone. Fermentation and vinification are very similar to his other Bourgogne Rouge with small modifications. He de-stems the Pinot Noir entirely and ferments in open-top wooden vats. After 13 days or so, the wine is pressed and the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in barrels. After 15 months of elevage in wood, the wine is racked, lightly filtered and bottled.
Moulin À Vent
0.8 ha plot of Gamay planted in 1960 on southeast facing slope at 230 meters elevation. Granite soils rich in magnesium. 12 day whole cluster carbonic maceration in wood tanks; aged for 12 months in barrel (10% new) racked to stainless steel tanks for 6 months.
Moulin à Vent La Rochelle
1 ha plot of Gamay, 85% of which was planted in 1937 and 15% in 1962, on southeast facing slopes at 250 meters elevation. Poor sandy granite soils containing magnesium. Sorting table, 15 days in closed wooden tank, whole-cluster fermentation, semi-carbonic maceration. Aged 20 months in barrel (20% new).