Domaine Moreau-Naudet
Chablis, France
Domaine Moreau-Naudet will always hold a very sentimental place in our portfolio. We met Stéphane Moreau several years back through a good friend and the wines immediately moved us. Soon after the wines arrived stateside, they quickly became some of the most popular wines in our portfolio. Subsequent visits to the estate showed us how dedicated Stéphane was in crafting great expressions of some of the best sites in Chablis.
“Stéphane Moreau may be very young but he’s already been making wine for more than a decade and that he possesses a gifted touch is evident to anyone who has had the pleasure of tasting his wines. One of the strengths of the young is that they’re open minded to new ideas and Moreau told me that he has begun experimenting with biodynamie….. I find Moreau to be one of the most exciting young growers in Chablis and his wines are well worth the trouble to get to know if you haven’t yet tried them.”
— ALLEN MEADOWS, BURGHOUND
Stéphane passed away in September 2016 at far too young of an age. The tragedy affected all of us deeply. After a period of uncertainty, Stéphane’s wife, Virginie, and his assistant winemaker, Coco voiced a strong commitment to continuing Stéphane’s vision. 2015 was the last vintage Stéphane made but subsequent vintages have remained true to his style.
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It's impossible to discuss the current state of affairs at Domaine Morea-Naudet without mentioning Virginie's husband who died just before the 2016 harvest at just 47 years old. He came from a family of vignerons, as far back as the 17th century, but domaine name itself only came into existence in 1950, following the marriage of Marie Naudet and René Moreau – Stéphane taking on the domaine from his father, Roger, in 1993. Stéphane’s inspiration had been the likes of Vincent Dauvissat and Didier Dagueneau - the later served as further inspiration for the domaine's distinctive label. Today it is Virginie and Stephane's right hand women, Coco leading the domaine forward.
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Stephane was a perfectionist in the vineyard. He eliminated any insecticide or anti-rot treatment, introducing organic amendments through out. The soils are plowed regularly (4 to 5 plows per year), no chemical fertilizers, pesticides or fungicides are used. The fertilizers used are organic in order to promote biodiversity within the rows. The vines are respected and controlled by short pruning, disbudding and green harvests. He especially emphasized the search for the perfect ripeness of the grapes, maturity which is found in this juicy flesh that we immediately appreciate in his wines. He has also greatly improved his aging: “juggling” between vats, barrels and demi-muids, he gradually lengthened them, thus gaining in complexity and balance.
Leading up to his death, Stéphane and Virginie expanded the vineyard from 7 to more than 20 hectares and built a state of the art cellar, on the Vaillons side, which allows simultaneous management of 3 vintages.
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Virginie has continued the work of Stephane, aided by Coco, Stephane’s longtime right hand woman. Fermentation is always with indigenous yeast, followed by a long maceration on lees. The estate has focused on particularly long aging for Chablis, from 18 to 22 months, with a maximum proportion of one-third of barrels on the premiers and grands crus, and only in stainless steel vats for Petit Chablis and AC Chablis. In the new winery, the barrel room has a thermal floor that helps kick off fermentations.
Wines
Petit Chablis
Despite coming from a 2.5 hectare parcel of young vines, this wine is made with the same level of care that the rest of the wines are. Contrary to the profile of most Petit Chablis, yields are lower than average, fermentation is with indigenous yeast, and it is harvested by hand. The wine is aged for nine months in stainless steel before bottling.
Chablis AOC
The vineyards are spread across two villages - Préhy and Courgis.One is predominantly limestone and the other is predominantly clay. Vines on average between 20 - 60 year old. 14 - 20 month aging on fine lees. There is no oak for the AOC Chablis, it is entirely stainless steel.
Chablis Vieilles Vignes “Les Pargues”
Les Pargues is a one hectare lieu dit which has the same exposition as Vaillons and Montmains, so despite being just a village site, it has the character of a premier cru. The vines are approximately 70 years old further adding to the intensity and potential of the site. Les Pargues is aged more in line with the premier crus in Moreau Naudet's cellar, which is to say a significant percentage of the final blend was aged in old barrels.
Chablis 1er Cru Forets
The domaine's holdings in Forets is made up of two parcels, totaling just under 2 hectares. The older parcel is of 60 year old vines and is right next to Vincent Dauvissat's holdings. The second is made up of younger vines (25 years old) and is next door to Raveneau's parcel of Forets. Forets identity among the geologically diverse premier crus in Chablis is one of notable power and intensity. It's soil is made up of a variety of different clays and decomposed rock over limestone which together with a southeastern exposure create a warm microclimate.
Chablis 1er Cru Montmains
Their parcel of Montmains is small, just 0.65 hectare, and made up of on average 55 year old vines planted in a soil rich in blue clay (bleu d'argile). The domaine has one plot in Montmains itself, two in, Butteaux and one in Vieux Mulot, old vines across the piece. Montmains is on the opposite flank of the valley to Vaillons. Montmains sees less oak. Only about 10%, whereas the rest see about 30%.
Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons
Moreau-Naudet's holdings in Vaillons are around 1.7 hectares from Roncière, Séchet (75 year old vines) and Epinottes. Fermentation is, as always, with natural yeast with up to a three month maceration on lees. Raised in stainless steel.
Chablis 1er Cru `Montee de Tonnerre
From a one-hectare parcel of 50-year-old vines within the lieu-dit Chapelot, Moreau-Naudet's Montée de Tonnerre is consistently their most mineral driven wine. The soils are sandy with a rocky topsoil and rich in Kimmeridgian limestone.
Chablis Grand Cru Valmur
Moreau-Naudet's sole Grand Cru Chablis comes from just over half a hectare of 35 year old vines with a fully southern exposure. Like Vaillons this cuvée is raised completely in stainless steel tanks.