Mira do Ó
Bairrada & Dão, Portugal
In a word, Nuno.
Nuno Mira do Ó is the singular inertia that drives both V. Puro and his eponymous Mira do Ó project in the myriad directions across the Portuguese landscape. Nuno is an untethered vine hunter, scouring the full country with the pure heart of a vigneron unlocking the core of any realized terroir. When he does root himself eventually, it is in agreement with the “old-timers”, often hiding a few rows, for sure off the beaten path. Certainly nothing is contiguous. In fact, he often has to travel into separate regions to satisfy the hunt. The reward is worthy of his tireless efforts, since his goal is the original clones of the indigenous varietals, shared and planted before the government mandated nursery clones were dispersed for larger co-op production decades ago. Exact location is perhaps not as important. It is these old timers that give wisdom and complexity to his wines.
As a result of his unique endeavor, Nuno has multiple projects in motion, each giving a “grand cru” level of precision and artistry. Cellar work is minimal, with a goal of terroir expression, natural concentration and proof that these original species are worthy of long cellar aging. Where he can grow, he is grafting/replanting “massale” cuttings to increase his chances of creating more wine to prove this point. If he can find “own-rooted” plants, all the better.
This brings Nuno to the edge of the Atlantic in Bairrada, along the forested streams of the Dão, to some parts in Alentajo and even in Menção e Melgaço in the far north (with Joana Santiago for SOU wines). He is respected by many of his peers as a source of wisdom, one who makes terroir transparency a practice and understandable. He refers to himself as a druid, like the ancient Celtic mystics whose connection to the earth and plants drove their quest to achieve spiritual equilibrium through the balance of nature. Similarly, he is quiet and observant. He lets the wine do most of the talking.
If there is one producer in particular that we appreciate for a vision, a roadmap toward Portugal’s terroir appreciation and understanding, Nuno would stand out. We have the great pleasure of getting to know him now through V. Puro’s finessed Baga and his sensuous Encruzado in Mira do Ó. It will be a pleasure furthermore where we meet him down the road.
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Nuno is a first generation winemaker from an agricultural family. He studied agricultural engineering and fell in love with wines in college. Admittedly, he finds vines to be more interesting than cows. So he found his way to viticulture and then moved on to winemaking and from there fell very fast for the old clones that made distinctly better wines than he found around him. Often it is one bottle of great wine moves people into action, but specifically a dust-covered bottle of Baga, found in the garage of a local farmer during a bit of vineyard negotiation propelled Nuno from curiosity into perpetual motion. Despite the farmer not recalling the exact age, it was clearly old enough to be forgotten, made for household consumption and uncorked for some time already.... and yet it sang as if it was young and well kept in a pristine cellar. He thought then, if the grape could be this good, this old, without human care, then the vines that made it must be super stuff. And so the hunt began....
Mira do Ó
Mira do Ó wines seek to attain perfect sense of balance with the utmost respect for nature. At its core is the hunt for perfect grapes, found in various locations where the forgotten clones are hidden in the cool climate fo the Dão and a tiny sub-zone called Bucelas.. Encruzado and Arinto share the spotlight. Winemaking takes place in a small stone cellar in the middle of the vineyard with minimal intervention highlighting the grapes and special terroir. The tinto vines grow Jaen, Alfroscheiro, Touriga Nacional. The individual wines are named in reference to the vison and observation of nature: the Seer & the Druid -
In the Dão region, the vineyards are located in São João de Lourosa, between Viseu and Silgueiros. It is a plateau at 500 meters of altitude on the right bank of the Dão River, with Serra do Caramulo to the northwest and Serra da Estrela to the southeast as the main landscape and climatic influences. Here the bed rock is granite as in most of the region but with a great richness of clay that allows a great balance of the vineyards, especially in the drier years and also to get wines with a richer texture and depth.
In Bucelas, just 20 km north of Lisbon, the vineyards are located in the area of Freixial and have a very particular climate strong Atlantic influence but protected within the valley. The soils are clay-limestone, here one can only speak of white wine and the variety that rules is Arinto, one of the most planted in Portugal but that has its birthplace here as well as its maximum potential.
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As a viticulturist, Nuno is in constant search for balance between the soil, the climate, and the vines. Winemaking minimalist in terms of intervention but quite differentiated and adapted to each of the different vineyards, that is, the different parcels also have a different approach in the winery in order to better reveal what he believes to be its purest expression.
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The viniculture is widely varied in technique, all according to the best expression of varietal, vintage and place. In other words, no set recipe leaving room to create pleasure. At the minimum however, grapes are hand picked and sorted. fermentations occur naturally. There is always a delicate hand in extraction and oak barrels are used only to enhance, not overwhelm, the natural beauty of the fruit.
Wines
Mira do Ó “Mira“ Bucelas Branco
100% Arinto from Bucelas 20 minutes from Lisbon. (Produced in a separate rented cellar - garage. to keep the Appellation)
Here there is a surface of hard limestone rock, which is more difficult and abrasive to work with.
two small vineyards, one is on a clay-rich slope, the other lowland
Directly pressed whole cluster - decants naturally, ferments for almost one year, 20% used barrels, 80% stainless
It remains in contact with lees for 10mons before bottling
Mira do Ó “Druida” Encruzado Reserva Branco
100% Encruzado
These low yield vineyards are 30 years old and produce premium quality grapes. The aim of this wine is to express its “terroir”: fresh, mineral and complex.
2 different parcels - on right bank of River Dao, 500m altitude
Here is it mostly granite, some clay on top. Some parts of the vineyards have pebbles
Straight to press, decants naturally for two days, straight to barrel - 100% barrel, most used, some are 700, 228L +500L
Fermented with indigenous yeasts. 10 months aging, barrels are blended and bottled. At least 5-6 months in bottle
Mira do Ó “Grande Druida” Encruzado Branco
100% Encruzado
This is a vintage selection, when a remarkable season creates a top expression of Encruzado.
Straight to press, decants naturally for two days, straight to barrel - 100% barrel (20% new), some are 700, 228L +500L
Fermented with indigenous yeasts. 10 months aging, barrels are blended and bottled. At least 5-6 months in bottle
Mira do Ó “Caminhante” Tinto
Encruzado, Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro e Jaen. (all in clay atop granite.)
The “Caminhante”(walker) symbolizes the various paths that we can follow in the vineyards and in the cellar in search of our wines. It stands for the more experimental side of wine production and the discovery of different things. It reminds us that walking the path is as or more important than the destination. In 2019 we followed a path that led us to recover something that has always been done in the Dão region: the blend of white and red grapes
Fermentation in open “lagares” with foot treading. Malolactic fermentation in vat.
further aged 9 months in used 500 liter barrels. Bottling in early summer.
1200 Bottles made