Girolamo Russo
Passopisciaro, Etna, Sicily, Italy
“Intimate and profound” is how Giuseppe Russo describes the act of making wine on the slopes of Mount Etna. Here, in a place of untamable energy, Giuseppe seeks to express and respect the place of his birth, Passopisciaro, through his wines. Ancient vineyards at exceptional altitudes, organic farming and traditional methods combine to allow for nature’s maximum expression to shine on the northern side of this mighty Sicilian mountain. He is also part of a new, freestyle project called “I Suoli” in collaboration with his winemaker, Emiliano Falsini, and longtime friend Dante Pasqua. The three are convinced of the potential of sparkling wines and make a metodo ancestrale from Nerello Mascalese plus ethereal, Burgundian style reds from vineyards topping 1000 m in altitude.
“Russo’s dad was a charcoal seller who cultivated grapes to sell in bulk from the family home in Passopisciaro. But as Russo took over, an Etna renaissance was blooming with the first wave of foreigners who began bottling wines that were nothing like the acidic, rustic, local Nerello. Passopisciaro was becoming the center of the scene, and Russo decided to join in.
Russo credits three key Etna transplants with teaching him valuable lessons. From extreme natural winemaker Frank Cornelissen he learned patience in waiting to pick mature fruit. From Italian-American Marco de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere he got the idea for single-vineyard crus. And from the Roman-by-way-of-Tuscany Andrea Franchetti of Passopisciaro winery, he learned that Nerello could make concentrated wines with evolved tannins.”
— ROBERT CAMUTO
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Giuseppe Russo took over the estate in 2004, inheriting his father Girolamo’s 12 hectares on the north face of Etna near Passopisciaro right when the Etna renaissance was blossoming. At 32 years of age, Giuseppe was studied in music and had a phD in literature and knew nothing of wine except what he had absorbed from his childhood growing up in the shadows of this mighty mountain. His intention was to be a pianist, a passion which he still enjoys as a hobby today. His philosophy about making wine always takes into consideration music and composition. As is often the case on Etna where camaraderie thrives, Giuseppe turned to his neighbors and fellow winemakers for knowledge and inspiration when he took over the family property. To this day, he cites specific individuals for helping to instill his current philosophy about winemaking. Humble, reserved and introverted, Giuseppe’s wines have become signature of the power, energy and uncompromising elegance that defines Etna winemaking today.
Giuseppe is also involved in a collaborative project on Etna called “I Suoli, ”(the soils) along with partners Emiliano Falsini, a renowned Italian consultant winemaker, and Dante Pasqua, a longtime friend of Giuseppe and small winemaker himself with a vineyard in Calderara Sottana. The winery’s niche is sparkling wine, as the three men are convinced that Nerello Mascalese and Etnean terroir have a uniquely elegant potential within the naturally re-fermented wine category. They purchased a small vineyard just over one hectare in Contrada Pignatone in Randazzo on the north side of the volcano with the desire to experiment and investigate Etnean viticulture using 100% Nerello Mascalese grapes. Their first vintage was 2018, a fresh year which required great sensitivity and attention in the vineyard but immediately excited them for its elegance and finesse. They decided to produce two wines: an Etna Rosso (a ‘traditional’ expression of the territory) and a Spumante Rosato.
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Giuseppe Russo’s vineyard holdings are concentrated in three main parcels between 650 and 780 meters above sea level in Passopisciaro. The vines - predominantly Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, with a bit of Carricante - are almost exclusively trained to alberello (bush trained) with some vines nearing 100 years of age. In total, the estate has 18 proprietary hectares of vineyards framed by hazelnut and olive trees. Giuseppe’s proprietary vineyards are: *San Lorenzo* at the entrance of Randazzo, between 700 and 800 m above sea level, which is characterized by three distinct geological formations dating as far back as 15 thousand years ago; *Piano delle Colombe* with exceptionally complex and porous soils and where Girolamo claimed that the doves (colombe) would always sneak in for the best grapes; *Feudo* and Feudo di Mezzo, dating back to the ancient Greeks who first planted vines in this profound and generous terrain with a unique microclimate influenced by steady winds from the Val Dèmone. *Feudo di Mezzo* is the company headquarters, where in part the soils have been rejuvenated by the volcano’s more recent eruptions and where an undeniable scent of embers and smoke fill the air at all times. At *Calderara Sottana*, the vineyards are spread over two different sciare (lava flows with distinct timing and evolution) and are among the most recently planted thanks to a new law that consented the recovery of personal property and allowed Giuseppe to plant clones from his oldest vineyards, allowing for a vineyard with new force but old soul.
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All farming is done according to organic regime, a tradition that Giuseppe has carried on from the generations of farmers before him that have consistently tended this land with care and to which the vines, some nearly 100 years in age, are testimony. Harvest typically takes place in October, and each plot is picked separately.
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Giuseppe works with consultant oenologist and longtime friend, Emiliano Falsini. In the cellar, all wines are fermented in small bins with indigenous yeast then aged in a mixture of large (2600 liter) Slavonian oak barrels and cement.
Wines
Girolamo Russo
Etna Rosato
100% Nerello Mascalese, more than half of which comes from San Lorenzo young vines. It is made like a white wine, pressed using a vertical press then moved to stainless steel for fermentation and aging.
Nerina Etna Bianco
70% Carricante, 30% Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella, and Coda di Volpe grown in the contradas of Feudo (Carricante), San Lorenzo and Calderara Sottana. 24 hour maceration on the skins, and no malolactic. This white is aged for 6 months in a combination of stainless steel (70%) and used tonneaux (30%).
San Lorenzo Bianco
San Lorenzo single vineyard Bianco made with 90% Carricante and 10% Catarratto and Grecanico. This parcel is in the midst of a vineyard planted to red varieties at a striking altitude of 750 m above sea level. The wine sees no malolactic and is aged in second or third passage barrique and tonneaux for 6 months. 2020 was the first vintage of this cuvée.
`A Rina Etna Rosso
“A ‘Rina” means sand in local dialect, a nod to the sandy volcanic soils from which this wine is made. It is a multi-contrada wine (from San Lorenzo, Feudo, and Calderara Sottana) that Beppe is quick to point out is not “entry level” but rather a symphony or melody of of the three different contradas from his estate that showcase their harmony with one another. Giuseppe strongly believes that the most balanced, complete wines are achieved as a composition from a variety of sites. 94% Nerello Mascalese with 6% Nerello Cappuccio to add color and amplify the fruit, the wine spends 12 months in Slavonian oak.
Feudo Etna Rosso
Almost entirely old vine Nerello Mascalese with very small amounts of Nerello Cappuccio from Contrada Feudo at 650-670 m above sea level. The entire vineyard is around 10 hectares but only the oldest 1 hectare parcel of vines is selected for the single contrada bottling. Aged 18 months in second passage Slavonian oak casks.
San Lorenzo Etna Rosso
Almost entirely Nerello Mascalese with very small amounts of Nerello Cappuccio from the single contrada, San Lorenzo. The vineyard is 8 hectares with vines 80+ years in age, at 750-780 m above sea level but only the oldest parcel of vines is selected for the single contrada bottling. Spontaneous fermentation is followed by 18 months in second passage Slavonian oak.
San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe
This tiny parcel is less than one hectare of 80 year old vines in Contrada San Lorenzo at 750 m above sea level. A place long beloved by the doves (colombe) the name is an homage to them. The wine is 100% Nerello Mascalese, aged in second passage 500 liter tonneaux and barrique for 18 months.
Il Suoli
Spumante Rose
This classic ancestral method is 100% Etnean, a selection of grapes cultivated in Contrade Tartaraci (1,000 meters altitude) and San Lorenzo. Direct press from whole bunches, fermented at low temperature by using natural yeast, kept in stainless steel tanks a part of the wine about 50% at a temperature of about 10°/12° and then assembled with the remaining part left to age in wood for 10 months from the end of fermentation. Finally, the "presa di spuma" in the bottle which takes place with the addition of sugars coming from the must of the new harvest. The wine is not disgorged and yeasts are left in the bottle (minimum 14 months).
Rilievi Etna Rosso
Obtained from grapes grown in 3 Contradas: (50%) Calderara Sottana - where they manage 2 hectares of vines, one of which they own, Feudo Pignatone (40%) and San Lorenzo (10%). Grapes are vinified separately with natural yeasts and with partial whole bunch fermentation, subjected to manual punching for 15 days, then the wine assembled and aged in Slavonian oak barrels for about 14 months during which they rack twice (May and October) with the aim of making the wine clear and not having to clarify or filter. This wine seeks to be a classic expression of the territory embracing different Contradas and exuding the knowledge of various vineyards.