Domaine Simon Bize
Savigny-les-Beaune, Côte de Beaune, France
Chisa Bize
There are a handful of domaines in Burgundy that we think of as almost being synonymous with their village - Domaine Simon Bize is one of them.
“Is there a more under-appreciated great Burgundy domaine these days than Domaine Simon Bize et Fils? Both the red and the white wines here are absolutely stellar (and have been for generations), and yet, I always get the sense that the Simon Bize wines remain some of the best-kept secrets in all of Burgundy.”
— JOHN GILMAN
The domaine has a long history, having been founded in 1890, and farms 22 hectares of vines. Their holdings are a laundry list of Savigny-les-Beaune's best sites, from perfectly situated lieux-dits to the best premier cru parcels of the appellation. Their house style is one partial to whole cluster fermentation for the reds and little to no new oak on both whites and reds.
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The domaine was founded in 1890 by Simon Bize who embarked on viticulture with a few hectares of vines in the middle of the phylloxera crisis. The estate was then passed to his son in 1918 (another Simon) who increased their holdings and then to his son (also, Simon) in 1950, who built up a portfolio of customers. But it was his son, Patrick Bize, who from 1972 took the quality of the wines to the top.
Patrick passionately defended a more classic vision of Burgundy far from what was fashionable at the time. It was this energy and fervor that attracted Becky Wasserman to his work from early in her career. After his sudden death in 2013, his wife, Chisa Bize and his sister, Marielle Grivot-Bize. His son Hugo has also recently joined the domaine.
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The village of Savigny-Les-Beaune is split in two by the Rhoin river dissecting the vines into the northern and southern zones between the Beaune and Pernand sides of the commune. The northern Premiers Crus (there are no Grand Crus) face south, giving them an advantage in warmth over their north-facing counterparts across the river. The northern plots also have a higher content of clay, allowing them to produce fleshier wines, which is why they can be considered superior. Aux Vergelesses is considered Savigny’s mightiest vineyard. Beneath it is another top Premier Cru, Les Lavières. Fournaux—which is named for ancient coal-fired kilns housed there, not because it is especially hot—lies just below those two, nearer to the bottom of the hill. The combination of these factors—southwest exposure, crumbly limestone-clay soil, shallow slope at the taper of the hill—leads to wines that offer a lovely compromise. They are supple and generous, though not without structure.
Domaine Simon Bize has a total of six premier premier crus in Savigny-lès-Beaune. The majority of them are on the northern side of the appellation, towards Pernand-Vergelesses – Aux Guettes, Les Serpentières, Les Talmettes, Les Fournaux and Aux Vergelesses.
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Farming has been a big focus for Chisa Bize since she became involved with the domaine. After training with Anne-Claude Leflaive, it was she who initiated experiments with biodynamics, starting with Les Serpentières in 2008, convincing Patrick that this was the best way forward.
Today, Les Serpentières is still where much experimentation happens, along with three parcels in Corton Charlemagne.
“I have chosen Les Serpentières and Corton-Charlemagne because they are difficult parcels. There is no reason to experiment with the easy vineyards. If I can make it work under difficult conditions, it will work anywhere.” - Chisa Bize
5 hectares are currently biodynamic. Only 5 because that is how much biodynamic preparations they can make at once. (150 liters)
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Partial to completely whole cluster, indigenous yeasts,. 0%-30% new oak, however none for the village reds, 10-15% for the premier crus and 20% for the white wines. Fining and filtration are rare. 30% of the domaine's total production is white.
Wines
Bourgogne Blanc Les Champlains
Vineyard planted in 1993 and 1996 on an eastern-facing slope. The soil is very rocky, and there are several quarries nearby. Fermentation is in barrel. There is usually no sulfur added at the press unless the vintage requires it. The wine ages for six months in barrel then three months in tank. The final blend usually contains around 5% Pinot Beurot (Pinot Gris) which is partly why Les Champlains tends to be rounder and richer than Les Perrieres.
Bourgogne Blanc Les Perrieres
Vineyard planted in 1967 and 1968. Surface Area: 1.50 hectares The vineyard is located on the hillside hanging over the village of Savigny. Les Perrieres is a very different expression from Les Champlains despite the elevage being exactly the same.
Savigny les Beaune Blanc
Made up of 3 different parcels. The elevage of all the whites in the cellar at Bize tends to follow a consistent style with only the length varying according to the parcel and/or vintage. That said, vinifications are never done systematically.
Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Blanc Aux Vergelesses
This parcel was planted to white grapes until 1968 when it was replanted with Pinot Noir and never thrived. Patrick Bize ripped up the vines again in 1995 and reverted it back to Chardonnay. This vineyard plot is in the premier cru Pernand-Vergelesses Ile des Vergelesses. The soil is of sandy marl and limestone, on a very steep slope.
Corton Charlemagne
All massale selection planted in 1938. The two parcels are located on the southwest side of the Corton hill, the westernmost part of the appellation on a very steep slope in Pernand Vergelesses - making access difficult. Compared to other parts of Corton-Charlemagne, these parcels get less sun - the resulting wine is less rich and rather a more tight, mineral expression of the site.
Bourgogne Rouge Les Perrieres
Vineyards planted in 1971 and 1974 on an eastern-facing slope. Surface Area: 2.20 hectares. The vineyards is located on the hillside hanging over the village of Savigny.
Savigny les Beaune Rouge Aux Grands Liards
Aux Grands Liards sits just below Les Lavieres, a premier cru site. The vines were planted in stages between 1938 and 1979 on limestone soil, marked by reddish clay gravel. The wine has more backbone and tends to be more of a masculine expression of Pinot Noir. It is a 1.60 hectare parcel.
Savigny les Beaune Rouge les Bourgeots
The plot planted between 1965 and 1978 and is 3.50 hectares. It has a moderately deep soil. Sitting on an unassumingly flat alluvial bench next to the south hill of Savigny-les-Beaune, Les Bourgeots is no ordinary Burgundy village wine. Just below two great 1er crus—Les Narbantons and Peuillets—Bourgeots’ calcium-rich white clay and sand deposits give this village wine its unusual power and dimension.
Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Rouge les Marconnets
This 0.80 parcel was planted in 1973 and sits on deep sandy soil. It is the only Savigny les Beaune premier cru that is south of the river (Beaune side), all the rest are north. There is always more sun on this parcel so it tends to get riper than the rest. It's deep sandy soil doesn't retain water as well so cool vintages tend to suits Marconnets the best with it's personality tending towards more flesh and weight.
Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Rouge les Serpentieres
Les Serpentieres is located under the premier cru Les Guettes, at mid-slope. The plot was planted in 1959 and is 0.35 hectare. It is well exposed to the south but with a heavy and humid soil. There is much water here; warm, dry years are less problematic but cold years require a lot of work. This is the first parcel Chisa Bize starting farming biodynamically in 2008. This was because of a condition that caused the color to move from the grapes to the leaves just after verasion. It's not just a color issue, what is leaving the grape is a type of polyphenols. The condition is called "en roulement".
Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Rouge Aux Vergelesses
Aux Vergelesses is the flagship cuvée, located right on the corner where the slope turns toward Pernand-Vergelesses facing east by south. The base of the vineyard is sandy marl but as you go up the slope there is iron-rich oolite. The plot was planted by thirds (1939, 1949, 1954) and is 2.20 hectares of which 1/3 is planted to Chardonnay and 2/3 to Pinot Noir.
Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Rouge les Talmettes
Les Talmettes is contiguous to Aux Vergelesses to the west, so it is south-facing. There are very few producers of Talmettes and was not produced as a single vineyard until 2007. Previously the wine was blended with Vergelesses but their was a new appellation rule that required it to bottle it as its own cru. The Bize parcel of Talmettes is 0.80 hectare and planted in 1968 and 1978. The parcel is steep at the top, with a little sand mixed into a clay-limestone based soil. The parcel is protected from the northwind, allowing for a more generous wine than is possible from Aux Vergelesses.
Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Rouge Aux Guettes
Further west from the village, Aux Guettes is on the upper slope, facing due south. There is a lot of clay in the soil and the wines tend to be on the firm side. The plot was planted in 1965 and is only half a hectare in size. It is the same altitude as Aux Vergelesses but the soil is deeper producing a wine with more power and richness.
Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru Rouge les Fournaux
Les Fournaux is the most eastern of the Savigny les Beaune premier crus. Mid-slope, just accross the road from Pernand-Vergelesses. It has the finesse of Vergelsses but with more power coming from the clay soils. The Bize parcel is one hectare and was planted in 1962 and 1963. "Les Fournaux" refers to an oven used for melting ore and alludes to open-pit mining.
Corton-Renardes
The domaine first produced a Corton Rouge in 2014 and did so through the 2016 vintage. Patrick Bize always wanted to vinify red Corton so when the opportunity presented itself they decided to do it in his memory.
Latricieres-Chambertin
The Bize 0.33 hectare plot of Latricieres-Chambertin was planted in 1961, 1971, and 1981. The soil is a poor and shallow marl and limestone based soil. Latricieres-Chambertin is the next-door neighbor of the grand cru Chambertin.