Domaine Prunier-Bonheur (new)

DOMAINE PRUNIER-BONHEUR

Meursault, Côte de Beaune, France

 

Pascal Prunier
Photo Courtesy of Michel Joly.

 
 

What Pascal Prunier manages to coax out of motley crew of relatively modest appellations, whether red or white, is absolutely spectacular.

Pascal, who has the most endearing and impossibly wide grin, is the 5th generation in a family of vignerons. He decided to launch his own domaine with his wife, Christine Bonheur, in 1983, with a mere 3 hectares of rented vines. Today, the domaine comprises 8 hectares of vines, scattered throughout the Côte de Beaune, from Saint Romain to Beaune. Production is equal parts white and red wine, and the cellars are located on the road between Meursault and Auxey-Duresses. (He lives around the corner from Jean-Marc Roulot.) The whites beam with energy and the reds have a rather extraordinary zen-like calm and great purity.

Wines

Bourgogne Aligoté Sous Chatelet

Sous Châtelet is a 0.35-hectare northeast-facing parcel in Auxey-Duresses, planted in 1995 on clay-limestone soils. The grapes are whole-cluster pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts, followed by 15 months of aging in used barrels to preserve purity and terroir expression. Sulfur is added only after malolactic fermentation and prior to bottling, with light filtration and fining applied only if necessary, resulting in a precise, balanced wine that faithfully reflects its origin.

Auxey Duresses Blanc les Crais

The parcel is 1.05 hectares. South-facing, lower part of hillside, stony clay-limestone soils. Average age of the vines is 60 years old but the oldest part of the parcel was planted in 1953. (The name of the parcel is Les Crais)

Pascal's parcel was planted in the 1950s on the north side of the appellation and deep in the valley, where there is a high content of active limestone. This is a powerful terroir, with assertive stoniness and near painful acidity, and Pascal’s translation of it is a wine as potently energetic as the first cup of coffee in the morning. It is a wine of cravings.

Auxey-Duresses Vieilles Vignes

The parcel is 0.55 hectares. Chardonnay vines planted in 1955 in lieu-dit Les Fosses on richer clay soil. Directly pressed, ambient yeast fermentation in barrels. Aged 11-15 months in older oak barrels (15% new). Blended and aged another 2-5 months in tank.

Monthelie Blanc les Toisieres

The parcel is 0.9 hectares. It is hard to believe that it was made by the same person as the Auxey Les Crais. It is rich, with a dense core that loosens quickly to more cuddles. The differences in terroir are striking, while the winemaking signature is absent, well, texturally-speaking: there is on the nose of Pascal’s whites that hint of Burgundian reduction, textbook, in perfect proportions, something people would pay dearly to achieve so tastefully.

Saint-Romain Blanc La Combe Bazin

The parcel is 0.92 hectares.Chardonnay vines planted in 1990 on southwest-facing, steep slope, white marl and limestone soil with clay sections.Directly pressed, ambient yeast fermentation in barrels. Aged 11-15 months in older oak barrels (15% new). Blended and aged another 2-5 months in tank.

Auxey Duresses Rouge

The parcel is 0.72 ha in size with 1/3 of it planted in 1966 and the rest in 1976. Most of the blend is de-classified 1er Cru Climat du Val which is south-facing on stoney limestone-clay soil.

Auxey-Duresses Rouge 1er Cru Climat du Val

The parcel is 0.26 hectares. Pinot Noir vines, two-thirds planted in 1960, one third in 1977 on steep south-facing slope, rocky soils of limestone and some clay. Sorted twice, 100% de-stemmed. 15-day ambient yeast fermentation with regular pump-overs. Aged 15-18 months in barrel (10-22% new). Blended and aged another 2-6 months in tank.

Beaune Rouge 1er Cru Les Sizies

The parcel is 0.33 hectares. Pinot Noir vines, half planted in 1948, and the other half in 1978. From the southern part of appellation, on plateau at mid-slope with mostly clay and some limestone soil. Sorted twice, 100% de-stemmed. 15-day ambient yeast fermentation with regular pump-overs. Aged 15-18 months in barrel (20-30% new). Blended and aged another 2-6 months in tank.

Mothelie Rouge

Vines planted in the 1980s in clay-limestone soils in the Les Sous Roches (east-facing), Sous Le Cellier (east-facing) and Les Crays (west-facing). Sorted twice, 100% destemmed. Aged in barrel (15% new) and bottled after 15-18 months. All cellar work follows the lunar calendar.