DOMAINE PRUNIER-BONHEUR
Meursault, Côte de Beaune, France
Pascal Prunier
Photo Courtesy of Michel Joly.
What Pascal Prunier manages to coax out of motley crew of relatively modest appellations, whether red or white, is absolutely spectacular.
Pascal, who has the most endearing and impossibly wide grin, is the 5th generation in a family of vignerons. He decided to launch his own domaine with his wife, Christine Bonheur, in 1983, with a mere 3 hectares of rented vines. Today, the domaine comprises 8 hectares of vines, scattered throughout the Côte de Beaune, from Saint Romain to Beaune. Production is equal parts white and red wine, and the cellars are located on the road between Meursault and Auxey-Duresses. (He lives around the corner from Jean-Marc Roulot.) The whites beam with energy and the reds have a rather extraordinary zen-like calm and great purity.
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David Chapel and Michele Smith met in 2013 while Michele, former wine director of restaurant Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare, in Brooklyn, NY visited Domaine Lapierre while on a wine trip in Beaujolais. David had been working in the vineyards and cellar at the domaine in Villé-Morgon at the time and when Matthieu Lapierre was unable to host Michele’s visit, he sent David instead. After living together for a few years in NYC, the decision was made to move back to Beaujolais in 2015 and move forward with plans tofarm and vinify their own wine and start their own winery, Domaine Chapel.
David, the son of acclaimed chef Alain Chapel, was naturally inclined to become a craftsman.
In the 1980’s, his father Alain Chapel, would often host winemakers and build menus to pair with their wines. He forged friendships with the likes of Jules Chauvet, Marcel Lapierre, Pierre Overnoy, Gerard Chave and many other vigneron from his native Savoie to Burgundy and the Northern Rhône. He appreciated the company of people who were extraordinary at their craft and shed light on their work by featuring their bottles on his wine list, at the time a 3-star restaurant. The vigneron were friends that he cooked meals for and was an early appreciator of “natural wines.” David grew up in this unique environment, above the kitchen of Restaurant Alain Chapel and his view of life, farming and winemaking was sculpted by these experiences. He worked his first harvest in the Beaujolais in 2005 at the winery of Marcel Lapierre and again in 2006 at the winery of Christophe Pacalet.
His career in wine & cuisine continued at his family’s restaurant in both France and Japan and later in NYC.
In addition to the wines of Domaine Chapel, made from wines farmed by David and Michele, they have created Smith-Chapel, a range of négoçiant wines from organically farmed vines on the slopes of Beaujolais and the nearby Mâconnais region.
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Their lieu-dit, Charbonnières, in Fleurie sits at 460 meters in altitude and it’s steep slopes are planted to high density, free-standing gobelet vines ranging in age from 30-60 years old. The land has been farmed organically for nearly 20 years and due to the steepness and proximity to the forest, it is by far the most labor intensive of all their parcels. The vines are completely enclosed by the forest which forms a clos, giving protection from the strong winds and also bringing some outside challenges. These namely being from the thick grasses, acacia trees & bramble bushes which wrap themselves around the cep and grow sporadically throughout the vines in a deep rooting system. These are removed by hand several times throughout the year to protect an equilibrium in the vineyard. The rest of the flora and fauna in the vines is left to grow and gives their Fleurie its unique character.
In 2022, they planted fruit trees throughout the vines to further foster an environment of biodiversity and promote the health of the soil.
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All the wines are fermented with indigenous yeast. The farming is as organic as the vintage allows but the domaine is not certified.
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White Wines – White bunches are transported to the winery and pneumatically pressed as rapidly as possible. Indigenous yeast alcoholic fermentation takes place in 350 litter barrels. The white wines age 11 to 15 months in barrel, with fining and filtration implemented as deemed necessary through blind tastings. It’s very important to them to taste first and then make decisions about the wine. They want the wines to decide their own fate.
Red Wines – Pascal prefers to de-stem entirely for purity and precision. Whole berries go through a 3 to 8-day cold soak (12°C) before indigenous yeast fermentation in stainless steel tanks begins. For a gentle extraction, temperature is limited to 32-34°C maximum and pump-overs are favored to punch-downs, which are limited to 2 or 3 times total. The reds age 15 to 18 months in barrel, with 10 to 20% new oak for village level, and 20 to 30% new oak for the 1er Crus. Reds may be lightly filtered, depending on the vintage.
Wines
Auxey Duresses Blanc les Crais
The parcel is 1.05 hectares. South-facing, lower part of hillside, stony clay-limestone soils. Average age of the vines is 60 years old but the oldest part of the parcel was planted in 1953. (The name of the parcel is Les Crais)
Pascal's parcel was planted in the 1950s on the north side of the appellation and deep in the valley, where there is a high content of active limestone. This is a powerful terroir, with assertive stoniness and near painful acidity, and Pascal’s translation of it is a wine as potently energetic as the first cup of coffee in the morning. It is a wine of cravings.
Auxey-Duresses Vieilles Vignes
The parcel is 0.55 hectares. Chardonnay vines planted in 1955 in lieu-dit Les Fosses on richer clay soil. Directly pressed, ambient yeast fermentation in barrels. Aged 11-15 months in older oak barrels (15% new). Blended and aged another 2-5 months in tank.
Monthelie Blanc les Toisieres
The parcel is 0.9 hectares. It is hard to believe that it was made by the same person as the Auxey Les Crais. It is rich, with a dense core that loosens quickly to more cuddles. The differences in terroir are striking, while the winemaking signature is absent, well, texturally-speaking: there is on the nose of Pascal’s whites that hint of Burgundian reduction, textbook, in perfect proportions, something people would pay dearly to achieve so tastefully.
Saint-Romain Blanc La Combe Bazin
The parcel is 0.92 hectares.Chardonnay vines planted in 1990 on southwest-facing, steep slope, white marl and limestone soil with clay sections.Directly pressed, ambient yeast fermentation in barrels. Aged 11-15 months in older oak barrels (15% new). Blended and aged another 2-5 months in tank.
Auxey Duresses Rouge
The parcel is 0.72 ha in size with 1/3 of it planted in 1966 and the rest in 1976. Most of the blend is de-classified 1er Cru Climat du Val which is south-facing on stoney limestone-clay soil.
Auxey-Duresses Rouge 1er Cru Climat du Val
The parcel is 0.26 hectares. Pinot Noir vines, two-thirds planted in 1960, one third in 1977 on steep south-facing slope, rocky soils of limestone and some clay. Sorted twice, 100% de-stemmed. 15-day ambient yeast fermentation with regular pump-overs. Aged 15-18 months in barrel (10-22% new). Blended and aged another 2-6 months in tank.
Beaune Rouge 1er Cru Les Sizies
The parcel is 0.33 hectares. Pinot Noir vines, half planted in 1948, and the other half in 1978. From the southern part of appellation, on plateau at mid-slope with mostly clay and some limestone soil. Sorted twice, 100% de-stemmed. 15-day ambient yeast fermentation with regular pump-overs. Aged 15-18 months in barrel (20-30% new). Blended and aged another 2-6 months in tank.
Mothelie Rouge
Vines planted in the 1980s in clay-limestone soils in the Les Sous Roches (east-facing), Sous Le Cellier (east-facing) and Les Crays (west-facing). Sorted twice, 100% destemmed. Aged in barrel (15% new) and bottled after 15-18 months. All cellar work follows the lunar calendar.