By Farr
Geelong, Moorabool Valley, Australia
Nick Farr & Gary Farr
Gary Farr first attempted to contact Burgundy growers in 1983. He sent off over 100 letters with only 1 response... Jacques Seysses (perhaps because Jacques himself was an outsider, not part of the historical suspicion, perhaps).
Gary had been a grape grower and wine maker for Bannockburn Wines, with a thirst for the unique qualities of Cote d’Or pinot noir. He wondered continuously how to produce the same finesse, assuming it was due to the underlying limestone, some of which could be found locally. Thus began a multi-year course in Burgundian cellars, every year at Domaine Dujac and others. He soon developed many friendships with the then-young generation (all-stars now in their mature years!) including Dominique Lafon, for a look at Chardonnay, who was also on his experimental path.
With a rolodex of inspiring growers, Gary left Bannockburn (2004) to try to replicate what he could in the soils of one hour southwest of Melbourne. Gary first begun to plant his vineyards with (smuggled) massale cuttings from Dujac. (petit fin for the pinot) and Calera clones from Calera in California. In their youth, the fruit expression was immediate and the initial wines he made were more of an attention grabbing style. This brought a certain amount of attention to By Farr. Gradually he began to understand the union between plant material and particular site, with every year older, the vines expressing more of their unique terroir. The family is only realizing terroir in the last 15 years
Nick Farr, his son began to visit Dujac in 2002, still only a youngster, harvesting annually alongside Jeremy Seysses, where we first met him in 2005. In agreement with his father, he clipped off to start his own project called Farr Rising, at age 21. Three years of bad wines necessitated Dad’s return, but only to assess the wines - he wanted Nick to learn as he had, by trial and error. From the beginning the intent was to always do better, to find more in the wines, to know the land and the voice through the vines and the continued evolution of the site.
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Gary and Robyn Farr purchased the original property in 1994 and the second section in 1998—this latter had been untouched for almost 40 years and consisted of dense boxthorn and noxious weeds. The final piece of the puzzle, which links the two blocks of land, was purchased by Nick and Cassie Farr in 2011, making a total of 130 acres—of which 36 acres are under vine and the remainder is maintained as grazing and cropping for cattle and horses.
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The Farr estate is located in the Moorabool Valley between Geelong and Ballarat, 100km southwest of Melbourne. Grape growing in this region dates back more than 200 years, with Swiss settlers planting Victoria’s first vineyards here in the early 1800s. The microclimate of the Moorabool Valley is both cool and harsh for viticulture, due to the low rainfall and ever-prevailing winds that sweep across the barren western plains of Victoria. On average it receives 240mm of the 540mm annual rainfall in the growing season.
Underfoot, the vineyards are based on ancient river deposits, complicated in parts with volcanic lava rocks. There are six different soils spread across the property, with two main types: Mostly on North facings - rich, friable red and black volcanic loam, and more eastern looking - Black volcanic soil with fragmented limestone (coming closer to the surface) in one direction and grey sandy loam with buckshot stones (ironstone) in the other.
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Nick and his father have learned that acidity in the wines defined by light/heavy soils- rootstock has proven to be more important than top graft. And the weather is changing, last 3 winters have been the wettest and coldest since 2016. Without dry summer, soils react to water activity remarkably,
6500-7500 vines per acre density to find balance in acidity
Trellising height is the secret to provide shade and proper angle to the afternoon sun
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Specific to the Chardonnays, the fruit is hand-picked then whole-bunch pressed in the winery. Slow natural ferments take place (in barrel) generally over 1-2 months. Stirring only to kickstart Malo-Ferment. The wine is then racked, fined and lightly filtered. The Viognier, in order to extract the phenols for more complexity, flavor and texture, is first foot stomped for 2+hours. Then it rolls into barrel following the same natural slow ferments as above. Generally wines are bottled 11mons after they are picked.
On the red side, Pinot fruit is hand-picked and sorted in the vineyard, then fermented in an open-top fermenter. @0-50% will be destemmed with a cold soak for @4days. natural yeasts only. Over the 12 days ferment, pigeage 2-3times a day to find correct extraction. 50-100% new french oak, as each cuvee can absorb varying amount according to each vineyard profile.. All wine is gravity fed to the barrels, then racked by gas after secondary fermentation, then again at 18 months to be bottled.
Shiraz of course, is handled in a different fashion. 20% whole cluster with a few percentage points of Viognier (either co-fermented or addes after). Ferments are in tank and then rest 18 months in French oak.
Wines
Estate Chardonnay
From the same site as the Sangreal pinot noir. Planted in 1994 on red soil over limestone. The limestone of this site is not exposed on the surface as at other sites. The limestone starts 20 to 30cm below the surface, to the depths of the root zone of the vines. It is a very exposed north-facing slope. 30% new french oak
GC Chardonnay “Côte Vineyard“
The GC Chardonnay (GC – Gary Charles) is attributed to all the knowledge extracted from Gary to create a high density planting of chardonnay on an exposed côte. Facing north, north-east and east for the full combination of soil types. This site will be the backbone of the Farr dynasty for decades to come. 50% new French oak.
Viognier
Blend of fruit from two vineyards. The first is the original house block, planted in 1994, which is friable red soil over limestone leading to sandstone—similar soils to the Sangreal pinot noir and By Farr chardonnay. The second vineyard is a younger planting of unknown clones in red ironstone soil.
Viognier is a difficult variety to manage as it has a tendency to grow horizontally rather than vertically, needs a lot of water and can become sunburnt very easily. Because of this, they pick earlier to retain its natural acidity, creating a more delicate and refined wine.
Farrside Pinot Noir
The Farrside vineyard sits on a northeast-facing slope and consists of limestone topped with black volcanic soil. The vines were planted in 2001 and run east-west to protect the fruit from overexposure to the sun. Even though the Farrside and Sangreal vineyards are only 300 metres apart, the darker soils and cooler growing conditions of the Farrside vineyard mean these grapes are picked 10 to 12 days after all others and produce a more masculine and edgy wine.
40-50% whole cluster. 50-60% new Allier barrels
Sangreal Pinot Noir
Planted in 1994, making it our oldest vineyard. It lies on a north-facing slope and the soil composition is bluestone and overlaying limestone, with red ironstone colouring the surface. The vine rows run north-south, receiving full sun exposure throughout the day, resulting in more perfumed, prettier wines. Always the first vineyard to be harvested.70% whole bunch in a five-tonne open-top oak fermenter (oak). 70% new oak. soft pigeage to start until they can monitor sugar left to balance.
RP Pinot Noir “Côte Vineyard”
The RP Pinot Noir (RP – Robyn Pamela) is in recognition of the matriarch. It is not only the support and goffering that Robyn has endured for Gary’s 40 year career. She has been in the vineyard and planted the first vines, driven the tractors, filled barrels and pigeaged at midnight. Between 40 to 50% destemmed, aged in 50% new Allier oak.
Tout Pres Pinot Noir
Tout Pres was planted in 2001 and is a very special and intriguing site. It rises above the other vineyards, and each of the three slopes consists of a different soil type. The largest slope is black volcanic soil over limestone; the second is quartz gravel mixed with red ironstone; the third is an iron strand in grey sandy loam.
With 7300 vines per ha, Tout Pres is a densely planted vineyard on the estate—hence the translation “very cosy”.
100% whole bunches in a five-tonne oak fermenter. 100% new French oak from Allier.
Shiraz
Shiraz fruit comes from the original By Farr vineyard, planted in 1994. It lies on a north-facing slope, and the red volcanic soil has a base of limestone with deep-set sandstone. All fruit is hand-picked from the VSP trellising, with 20% whole bunches in the fermentation. Most years they co-ferment between 2-4% viognier (regardless of picking ripeness) with the shiraz. 18 months in French oak, 20% new being new..