Arnaud Lambert
Saint-Just-sur-Dive, Loire Valley, France
Arnaud Lambert
While soft-spoken, Arnaud Lambert is helping to lead a movement in the appellations of Saumur and Saumur-Champigny. The goal is to re-discover each individual terroir and its potential through organic viticulture and precise winemaking. An ambitious undertaking as he oversees about 40 hectares of vines. This is particularly important considering 70% of the surface area in Brézé and Saint Cyr belongs to the cooperatives.
However, Arnaud has a clear vision. In 2017, he united his two projects from the distinct terroirs of both Brézé , vines which he and his father managed since 2009 and Saint Cyr en Bourg under one label: Domaine Arnaud Lambert. The Saint Cyr wines come from Domaine Saint-Just, which was founded by Arnaud’s father Yves in 1996. The attention and care to each and every parcel of this ambitious domaine is impressive and Arnaud orchestrates it all with a quiet reverence.
We couldn’t be more excited for Arnaud to finally have Brézé and Saint Cyr en Bourg under one roof and see what the future brings.
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In 1996, Yves Lambert, Arnaud’s father, decided to change career paths at 46 years old and get back to his roots in Saumur, establishing Domaine de Saint-Just. His goal was to express the terroirs of Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, at the heart of the Saumur-Champigny appellation, working with both Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. Arnaud joined his father in 2005, and in 2009, the father/son team also became managers of the viticultural estate of the Château de Brézé. (The château is not only a UNESCO World Heritage site, but also a historically important reference in French fine wine: royals used to exchange these wines annually for Château d’Yquem Sauternes.)
In 2017, Arnaud decided to united these two entities (Château de Brézé and Domaine de Saint-Just) under one name…Domaine Arnaud Lambert. This stems from his desire to showcase the differences between the two great communes of Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg and Brézé in Saumur, while maintaining a consistent philosophy toward both.
In 2022, Arnaud decided to drop the Clos designation from the label. Historically these vineyards were indeed single, walled-in parcels, but today the walls are no longer standing. Arnaud has come to the decision that the names of these individual terroirs are more important than the notion of them being ‘Clos’.
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Breze is a unique site due to its relatively high elevation and eminently nuanced geological profile. It is assumed that tuffeau limestone is the mother rock that sits below the surface on nearly all vineyards on this hill. On top of that are variations of limestones mixed with clay and/or sand. Clay and sand also lend themselves to the diversity of the terroirs, giving body to the reds and richness to the whites. The cold temperatures of this hill coupled with the highly active calcium content in the soils create still wines that have crazy finishing pH levels within the range of 2.85 to 3.05; on the lower end, numbers you’d be more likely to see in Champagne.
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In 2009, the same year Yves and Arnaud began managing the Chateau vines, they also began converting all of their vineyards to organic, and were officially certified in 2012. This movement stemmed first and foremost from the desire to express the terroir of each individual parcel in its purest, most vibrant form.
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Arnaud strives for consistent methods in the cellar, so that each individual terroir is what shines through. Only the traditional Champagne methods for the crémants, which—grown on the estate’s chalkiest soils can hold their own against some of the great, classic Champagnes. The Saumur Blanc and Rouge are vinified and aged exclusively in stainless steel to maintain fruit and freshness. As one moves up in the range and the wines gain in power and density, each of the five Clos wines see an increasing percentage of new oak and longer élevage.
Wines
CREMANT DE LOIRE BLANC NV
Done in traditional champagne method and grown on the estate’s chalkiest soils. A blend of 75% Chenin Blanc, 25% Chardonnay planted in 1990. From the Clos du Château, soils of silty sand and clay with a depth of 60cm, on top of a softer Turonian limestone bedrock. Vinification: Indigenous yeast fermentations, 24 months aging on lattes. Dosage: 8 g/l; blocked malo.
CREMANT DE LOIRE ROSE NV
Done in traditional champagne method and grown on the estate’s chalkiest soils. 100% Cabernet Franc planted in 1981 Sourced from vines in the lower part of the Clos du Midi. Sand and silt topsoil covers 1 meter of soft Turonian limestone Vinification: Indigenous yeast fermentations, 24 months aging on lattes. Dosage: 6 g/l; blocked malo.
SAUMUR BLANC MIDI
100% Chenin Blanc planted in 1985 on 3.5 hectares on a south-eastern exposure. 70cm of sand, silt and clay topsoil covers the soft Turonian limestone bedrock. This is one of the colder sites on the Brézé hill. The upper section, on the mid-slope of the hill, is primarily made of sand and at the bottom it is more rich in clay. Both of these features combined with Brézé's mother rock, tuffeau limestone, create the wine's balance between tension and generosity. Grapes are hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyards. Indigenous yeast fermentation is 50% in stainless steel tanks and 50% in older (5 to 6 wines’ old) 228-liter barrels to maintain freshness. Elevage: Lasts 12 months. Malolactic fermentation is blocked naturally due to very low pH (generally around 3.10).
SAUMUR BLANC BOURGUENNE
100% Chenin Blanc, about 20 year old vines. Planted on sand and Limestone; on the hill of Breze. Vinification: Matured 24 months in a combination of new and used oak barrels.
SAUMUR BLAMC LES PARCELLES
100% Chenin Blanc planted in 1988 from a blend of parcels from the communes of Brézé and Saint-Cyr-En-Bourg, spanning 2 hectares. Direct pressing. Ambient yeast fermentation in stainless steel and concrete tanks. No malo, no bâtonnage. Aged about 5 months in concrete tanks.
SAUMUR BLANC DAVID
Variety: 100% Chenin Blanc planted in 1965 on 1.3 hectares on a north-eastern exposure. 70cm of lightly silty sand topsoil covers the soft Turonian limestone bedrock. This is one of the coldest sites on the hill of Breze, so cold that it never has a chance to develop botrytis, even in the perfect botrytis years. Vinification: Grapes are hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyards. Indigenous yeast fermentation is 50% in older foudres (large oak vats) and 50% in smaller 228- liter oak barrels (15% new and the rest one, two or three years old). Elevage: 12 months in barrel, followed by 6 months in tank. Malolactic fermentation is blocked naturally due to very low pH (generally around 3.05).
SAUMUR BLANC RUE
Variety: 100% Chenin Blanc; 1 hectare planted in 1965, 1 hectare planted in 1990 on southern exposure. This parcel has a distinct and very complex soil structure: the top layer is 35cm of sand, then 10cm of clay, with the Turonian limestone bedrock underneath.
Clos de la Rue is the warmest vineyard on the hill of Breze and is reasonably insulated from the heavy gusts of wind that circle it. If you were to look at a thermal graph of average temperatures you would see a perfectly long rectangle that would show the most warm color from the key. The soil is sandy limestone on top, 25cm down you find clay and then another 10cm further, tuffeau limestone. The clay and warmth make this wine’s dimensions powerful. It's closest comparison is Guiberteau’s Clos de Carmes. Vinification: Grapes are hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyards. Indigenous yeast fermentation in oak barrels (35% new and the rest one to two wines’ old). Elevage: 12 months in barrel, followed by 6 months in tank. Malolactic fermentation is blocked naturally due to very low pH (generally around 3.0).
SAUMUR BLANC COULÉE DE SAINT CYR
Variety: 100% Chenin Blanc, about 70 years old. Terroir: Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg – terroir on Turonian Superior bedrock, resulting in precise and firm wines Vinification: Lasts 12 months on fine lees in barrel/foudre, with one racking after alcoholic fermentation (which, combined with the low pH, naturally inhibits malolactic fermentation). The wine is then racked to tank for a further 8 months and bottled during summer. Low total sulfur doses – the whites finish with around 60 mg/l total SO2.
SAUMUR ROUGE MAZURIQUE
100% Cabernet Franc planted in 1990 on 3.7 hectares. Terroir: Western exposure. 50cm of silty sand topsoil covers the Turonian limestone bedrock. Vinification: Grapes are hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyards and cellar. Bunches are 100% de-stemmed before indigenous yeast fermentation in concrete tanks to maintain freshness and vibrancy. Maceration by infusion, with no pump-overs. Elevage: Aged for 5 months in concrete tank before bottling.
SAUMUR ROUGE TUE-LOUP
100% Cabernet Franc planted in 1995 on 2 hectares of sand and limestone. Vinification: Grapes are hand-harvested and sorted in the vineyards and cellar. Bunches are 100% de-stemmed before indigenous yeast fermentation in tank (concrete or stainless steel) to maintain freshness and vibrancy. Maceration by infusion, with no pump-overs. Elevage: Malolactic fermentation in tank, then 50% of the cuvée is transferred down to recent (2 to 4 wines old) barrels in the cellar. After one year, the wine is racked and blended together in tank for 6 months before bottling. No fining or filtering. One year of aging in bottle before release.
SAUMUR CHAMPIGNY MONTÉE DES ROCHES
100% Cabernet Franc, 35 years old on average. Terroir: Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg – terroir on Turonian Superior bedrock, resulting in precise and firm wines. Eastern exposure. Vinification: 100% de-stemming (gentle to maintain whole berries). Indigenous yeast fermentation in stainless steel or concrete tank. Maceration by ‘infusion’, lasting 15 to 21 days with no extraction. The wine is then pressed, with free-run and pressed juice separated. Elevage: In barrel (225-liter, 3 years old) for 7 to 12 months. The wine is then racked to stainless steel tank for 6 months and bottled during summer. No added sulfur other than a small dose at bottling – the reds finish around 35 mg/l total SO2.