Quinta Do Javali
Douro, Portugal
It took one morning visit to the vineyards of Clos Fonte do Santo, home to the new realization of Quinta do Javali to leave a indelible impression on the Grand Cru team. A peace on the earth, lost in the clouds place, teaming with life and fresh air and remarkably silent...except for the joyous bursts of laughter penetrating it all... António Mendes. It is his ‘nothing-is-impossible’ giant hearted personality that adds to the terroir and adds to the overall profusion of energy found on this cascading mountain side. His exuberance was understandable. After a prosperous history of crafting port and predominately bold Duoro wines, António read his vines around this high natural spring as a source of something new, poetic, imaginative and playful. Without fear, he built a small winery directly out of the rock, filling it with new versions of classic wine making apparatus: temp-controlled steel lagares, satellite shaped cement eggs ground from the adjoining vineyard rock, and even glass sided barrels to make clear the moments with the barrel over the course of time. Biodynamics became the through line. They are uniquely vigneron among Portuguese grape-growers. They have found a terroir. The dream and execution truly does provide something new from the Duoro.
It was an unexpected and unforgettable visit. And now, with thanks to the introduction by JD Selections, we are lucky to call them partners.
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Quinta do Javali is a family-owned farm spanning 18 hectares (44 acres) along the left bank of the Douro River. The farm has a winemaking tradition dating back to the 17th century and has been in the Mendes family since 1982. The estate is dedicated to the cultivation of indigenous Duoro grape varietals, a foundation that has spurred 2 branches of the estates wine production.
As with all houses placed in the Duoro cliffs, the financial gain has been proven with hundreds of years of commercial success. Antoinio’s father purchased the vines as a traditional port estate, with little mind for dry table wines. Today, the estate still produces a number of wines, including a range of porto, for a palate liked by an older generation, denser and more powerful, certainly with more alcohol, even without fortification. Why change something that is already working so well, right?
In recent years, António Mendes has tasted the future, so to speak. The family has made significant investments in several of the Quinta’s vineyards to convert them to fully organic and biodynamic farming (horse plowed and wild pig (Javali) tilled). His intention here is to signify that the Duoro too can produce incredible wines of terroir which are lighter, fresher and less weighted by higher alcohol. The new presentation reveals the flavors and elegance found naturally in the collaboration of Duoro grapes.
It is a remarkable ability of the estate to manage both the historical wines with traditional methods, while taking a “crazy” leap forward for the pronouncement of authenticity, terroir and excellence.
In response to an afternoon visit with Antonio and his winemaker partner Eduardo Rodrigues, we might agree that there are no two people more fired up for the future reception for terroir wines from the Duoro.
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There are 2 vineyard sites for the “Javali” cultivation. Clos Fonte do Santo sits at remarkable elevations (600-800m), with the clos wrapping 3 contiguous vineyards as one climbbs the slope. Estimated by how quickly it rises from foot to waste, the angle of elevation is close to 45degrees+ (one can rest an elbow on the ground while standing up straight!). On top of hard granitic/schistic mother rock is a wondrous cushion of topsoil, full of wild vegetation, mushroom and the occasional hole from borrowing wild boar (Javali). This combination of health below, luminosity above & mountain air flowing between makes this a truly unique terroir, even in the Duoro.
The Clos “Bonifata” is a smaller (2ha) third vineyard located about 1km West of Clos Fonte do Santo. It is planted entirely to white indigenous (branco) varietals, mostly Arinto and Viosinho. Vines are young still.. planted in 2016.
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Both vineyards hug the incredibly steep, North-facing slopes reaching to nearly the maximum elevation for ripeness (olive trees line the crest of the mountain above). The elevation spanning 670-700M. The 80+ yr old vines are a combination of over 30 local varietals, all goblet trained in pure schistic soils, so impenetrable that stakes of the same schist are driven into the rows for vine support (and perhaps hand holds for anyone climbing the face of the clos!)
The thin top soils here are all biodynamically enriched, with a few of Steiner’s recipe blends, as well as with the tilling and digestion of wild boars (Javali mentioned above). Wild flowers, grasses and fungus of all sorts (chanterelles abound!) maintain the cover soils from erosion.
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The new cellar for wines of Clos Bonifata, Clos Fonte and the Crazy wines, rests squarely at the “bottom” of the slope. This saves the worry of travel and over-heated grapes at harvest time.
Antonio’s pursuit has led him to vinify sub-plots and varietals separately, even going beyond to use the excess raw materials (underripe grapes, left over skins, etc.) as a way to discover new wines while recovering/recycling waste. Even the few cement eggs (which resemble more an updated design of a soviet satellite) have been made from powdered schist dug directly from the vineyards.
Wines
Antonio’s naming of this line of wines, perhaps is a crazy approach, although adherent to their values of preservation and innovation. These wines are birthed from the “throw-away” grapes and skins from the primary wines. Their intention is pleasure, vibrancy and playfulness. .... as the kids like these days
“DRINKABILITY” + YOUTH = CRAZY
Crazy Javali Branco
Living up to the pen-name! The skins from the press of the white (bonifata) are blended juice of lesser ripe grapes from Bonifata. This combination is then foot trodden in 5ton (stainless steel) lagar. Once the cap raises and then alcoholic fermentation begins, it remains for about a month (some is transferred to steel tank). Malo is not blocked, but not always achieved. Spends about one year in barrel.
Crazy Javali Tinto
Clos Bonifata (Branco)
The Clos “Bonifata” is a smaller (2ha) third vineyard located about 1km West of Clos Fonte do Santo. It is planted entirely to white indigenous (branco) varietals, mostly Arinto and Viosinho. Vines are young still.. planted in 2016.
Grape varieties Viosinho, Arinto, Rabigato +++
Vinification: Manual harvest to 20kg boxes. Grapes sit in press with whole bunch and no juice for two days. Then Champagne- pressed and transferred to schist egg (3000L). Fermented on lees, then spends 18mons-2years, without battonage, in the same egg. There is no concern for Malo (It may happen or it may not...) The wine is not stabilized by cold and only has a light filtration. Goes straight from egg to bottle.
Clos Fonte do Santo (Tinto)
For the reds of Clos Fonte de Santo, the individual identity is revealed as site location, not grape selection. The wines are vinified in the same way to present this conversation. Both vineyards hug the incredibly steep, North-facing slopes reaching to nearly the maximum elevation for ripeness (olive trees line the crest of the mountain above). The elevation spanning 670-700M. The 80+ yr old vines are a combination of over 30 local varietals, all goblet trained in pure schistic soils, so impenetrable that stakes of the same schist are driven into the rows for vine support (and perhaps hand holds for anyone climbing the face of the clos!) The thin top soils here are all biodynamically enriched, with a few of Steiner’s recipe blends, as well as with the tilling and digestion of wild boars (Javali mentioned above). Wild flowers, grasses and fungus of all sorts (chanterelles abound!) maintain the cover soils from erosion.
In the heart of the clos, just under a buckle in the hill, is a natural spring (Fonte). This perpetual water supply helps feed the vines as well as maintains the natural life around it, in a place where drought risk could be an issue in the summer months. In short, this is a garden of eden in the clouds.
The new cellar for wines of Clos Bonifata, Clos Fonte and the Crazy wines, rests squarely at the “bottom” of the slope. This saves the worry of travel and over-heated grapes at harvest time.
Clos Fonte do Santo, Stone Vineyard (red cap)
3.5 hectare Higher end of the vineyard, marked by the 3 jagged stones thrust out of the cascading grade.
Grape varieties: field blend of 30+ varietals
Vinification: Manual harvest to 20 kg boxes. Fermented, with whole cluster, in steel lagar (a very gentle extraction) at 10 Celsius (controlled - 12-15days). Malolactic fermentation in old French oak barrels (a small portion in stainless steel). Aged 12 months. The combined wine then settles in tank before bottling The wine is not stabilized by cold and only has a slightly filtration.
Production: 4465 bottles
Clos Fonte do Santo, Cherry Tree Vineyard (cherry cap)
3.5 Hectare Midslope cradling the “Fonte” and rising just above. It has as a marker, a few stand-alone cherry trees anchoring the corner remnants of the clos.
Grape varieties: field blend of 30+ varietals
Vinification: Manual harvest to 20 kg boxes. Fermented, with whole cluster, in steel lagar (a very gentle extraction) at 10 Celsius (controlled - 12-15days). Malolactic fermentation in old French oak barrels (a small portion in stainless steel). Aged 12 months. The combined wine then settles in tank before bottling The wine is not stabilized by cold and only has a slightly filtration.
Production: 4000 bottles
Clos Fonte do Santo, Bees Vineyard (blue Cap)
Grape varieties: field blend of 30+ varietals
Cellar: Manual harvest to 20 kg boxes. Fermented, with whole cluster, in steel lagar (a very gentle extraction) at 10 Celsius (controlled - 12-15days). Malolactic fermentation in old French oak barrels (a small portion in stainless steel). Aged 12 months. The combined wine then settles in tank before bottling The wine is not stabilized by cold and only has a slightly filtration.
Production: 700 bottles