Eolia

Eolia

Salina, Sicily, Italy

 

Natascia Santandrea & Luca Caruso

 
 

After a lifetime as wine enthusiasts, Luca Caruso and Natascia Santandrea embarked on a project to make wine together on Salina, a remote Aeolian island off the northern coast of mainland Sicily. Neither name is new to the wine world; both Caruso and Santandrea have curated impressive wine lists for their respective restaurants: Luca at his family’s Michelin-starred hotel, “Signum”, on Salina, and Natascia at the now shuttered “La Tenda Rossa” in central Tuscany. In the throws of the pandemic in 2020, the couple (in life and in work) put their energy into something that they could call their own: making wine on Luca’s native Salina, a place he knows so well he could drive the roads with his eyes closed. 4 hectares and two white wines later, the concept is based on zoning; working in single parcels, harvesting and vinifying everything separately. Eolia is as much an homage to the energy, nature and profound amore for the island as it is an ode to the most recurring element of this couple’s relationship: vino buono.

"2020 seemed like a new beginning. A new decade, a prime number for us. Even if we didn’t have our own vineyards, we decided to launch Eolia, in full lockdown. We started with a selection of grapes produced by local farmers and little by little we were able to choose vineyards for our project.”
-Luca Caruso

  • The vineyards that make up Eolia’s 4 hectares are handpicked, almost down to each individual row. Drawing on Luca’s immense knowledge of the island, the couple was able to select ten micro parcels in specific areas of Salina that together amount to a selection that proves the capability of this lush yet variable terroir. Young enologist and cellar manager Bernardo Ciriciofolo stands beside Luca and Natascia in support of daily operations, adding to the impression that Eolia is a project driven by passion and curiosity rather than profit and big names. Departing from tradition, Eolia does not make the classic passito style that defines the DOC Malvasia delle Lipari but rather two dry styles of Malvasia representing two different expressions of terroir on Salina. Having both managed restaurant cellars, the couple drink well and have a sincere appreciation for the great wines of the world. With Eolia, they are striving to create something above and behind a simple island wine made for easing drinking, aiming to make “patient wines” that forego standard release dates and have the potential to stand the test of time.

  • The seven Eolian islands have a unique story and place in Mediterranean history. Colonized by the Greeks around 580 BC, they were believed to be the home of the Greek God of wind, Eolo. Salina is the greenest and most agriculturally rooted of the seven sister islands; a place where the sea and the island’s extinct twin volcanoes are equal protagonists. The cultivation of wine on the island has extended over centuries thanks to the geographic position, influence of the sea, unique sun exposition and legendary winds that sweep over the landscape. Eolia’s vineyards lie in two predominant areas of Salina: at sea level, near the town of Malfa, and in Valdichiesa - quickly becoming the most lauded area to source fruit on the island due to its elevated position between Salina’s two volcanic peaks, Monte delle Felci and Monte dei Porri, at nearly 400 m in altitude. Soils are of volcanic origin, rich with nutrients, and vineyards are traditionally terraced. The island is also known for the cultivation of DOP capers, which are known throughout the world.

  • Luca and Natascia choose to farm organically, as does the entirety of the island. They originally rented vineyards but are now buying specific sites, some of which will be replanted as early as the Spring of 2023. Their approach in the vineyards embodies minimal intervention and takes into account the exposition and layout of each individual parcel. Oftentimes, white and red varietals are found in the same row providing a complex patchwork but ultimately improving biodiversity in the vineyards. Mario Marsile - “il signore delle vigne” of Salina - otherwise known as a wise farmer with a GPS-like knowledge of the island, consults for the project in the vineyards. Across all parcels the vines often reach 70 years in age and are guyot trained.

  • The wines are managed by Bernardo Ciriciofolo, a young enologist from Umbria whose passion about Salina is remarkable. Salvatore Graci, of the famed Sicilian winery, Palari, has also sustained the project since its beginning as a dear friend of the couple and thanks to him also the wisdom from the scientific team of Enosis, from star enologist Donati Lanati. The vinification process is simple and straightforward: pressed immediately, spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel bins then transferred to stainless steel tanks to rest on its fine lees.

Wines

BIANCO M

90% Malvasia, 10% Catarratto and Inzolia from 4 different parcels in Malfa (altitude 200-260 m above sea level). All stainless steel, whole cluster, batonnage at least once a week, 6 months in bottle before release.

BIANCO V

100% Malvasia, from 6 parcels in Valdichiesa split between Monte Fossa and Monte dei Porri (250-400 m); only stainless, batonnage once a week and 1 year in bottle.